tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-82570303130551830442024-03-23T13:26:18.239-10:00Hawaii HorticultureA blog about gardening and plants in Hawaii.HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.comBlogger218125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-76045294657055965732015-11-07T15:05:00.000-10:002015-11-14T12:46:10.704-10:00Another Garden Lizard<div class="MsoNormal">
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qxQtHV-qYwg/Vj6fOlYqd6I/AAAAAAAADN8/TjBSaQvQsmI/s1600/Phelsuma_laticauda-panorama.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="184" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qxQtHV-qYwg/Vj6fOlYqd6I/AAAAAAAADN8/TjBSaQvQsmI/s640/Phelsuma_laticauda-panorama.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Earlier I wrote about two garden lizards, the brown anole (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Anolis sagrei</i>) and the green anole (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Anolis carolinensis</i>). There is a third
one that folks on O‘ahu, West Maui and the Island of Hawai‘i may be seeing is
the gold dust day gecko (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Phelsuma
laticauda</i>).<o:p></o:p></div>
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The gold dust day gecko is a little larger than the more common
house gecko and can grow 4 to 6 inches long. The body color is a bright green
or yellowish green with yellow or orange small dots on the neck and the upper back.
There are three rust-colored bars on the nose and head and it has blue around
their eyes. Just above the tail are three orange-red tapering spots that
diffuse into small spots.<o:p></o:p></div>
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This attractive gecko is not native to Hawai‘i. It is native
to northern Madagascar, an island nation off the east coast of Africa. It
arrived in Hawai‘i when, in 1974, a student at UH let eight individuals go in Mānoa
– illegally. Geckos are <a href="http://hdoa.hawaii.gov/pi/pq/import-program/animal-guidelines/">not
allowed to be imported</a> into Hawai‘i because of the damage they can do to our
native ecosystems. The type found in Hawai‘i is the subspecies <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Phelsuma laticauda </i>ssp. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">laticauda</i>. Gold dust day geckos are listed
by the Hawaii Department of Agriculture as Restricted A list animals for
research and exhibition only. So it is not legal to catch and keep day geckos
or move them from place to place.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The gold dust day geckos eat insects, nectar and pulpy
fruit. They may even eat smaller lizards. YouTube videographers have exploited
their attraction to pulpy fruits. Place out a ¼ teaspoon of mashed banana or
papaya where the gold dust day gecko is commonly seen and within minutes one or
two of the braver geckos will approach the pulp and start lapping it. If there
are several geckos in the area more than one may lap the fruit but male gold
dust day geckos can be aggressive and may chase off other geckos. See a video <a href="https://youtu.be/_DHcuLNt3kY" target="_blank">here</a> or at the end of this article.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SWBPhvQ5Y-s/Vj6fL6a6WiI/AAAAAAAADN4/UL6oWSsH2Fw/s1600/Phelsuma_laticauda-46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="270" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SWBPhvQ5Y-s/Vj6fL6a6WiI/AAAAAAAADN4/UL6oWSsH2Fw/s400/Phelsuma_laticauda-46.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Enjoying a little papaya.</i></td></tr>
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Sometimes gold dust day geckos will be seen lapping on
leaves. They are actually licking off the “honeydew” from sap-sucking insects.
Aphids or mealy bugs suck the sap of plants and poop out a sugary substance (honeydew)
that may coat the leaves of the plant. If you see black mold growing on leaves,
it is actually growing on the honeydew. When a gold dust day gecko is seen
lapping on a leaf, it is actually lapping the honeydew off the leaf.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Although sometimes seen in the house, the gold dust day
gecko prefers to stay outside. They tend to hang out on walls, in trunks of
trees and seem especially fond of banana stalks. They are generally shy and if
they see you coming will quickly hide by going to the opposite side of a
branch, trunk or railing. Or they will find a crack they can squeeze into.
Sometimes, though, they seem to have a gregarious moment and will hang out and
observe you right back. If you regularly feed them fruit pulp they will grow
accustomed to you and stop hiding on sight. This isn’t really recommended
though since pulpy fruit isn’t a mainstay of their diet, just an occasional
treat.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Female gold dust day geckos lay two eggs at a time,
sometimes right on plants but usually in cracks or in hollow branches. The two
eggs stick together when they dry. Sometimes several females will lay their
eggs in the same place, but there will always be an even number.<o:p></o:p></div>
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So what’s wrong with gold dust day geckos and why can’t they
be moved around for all to enjoy? Because of their insect-eating nature when
they get into Hawaii’s native forests they eat native insects. Those native
insects are an important part of our native ecosystem, performing pollination
services, recycling services and food for our insect-eating birds and the
Hawaiian hoary bat. There are enough problems with our native ecosystems that
another competitor out there is likely to push more of our plant and animal
species toward extinction.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8FaKpqzVkhE/Vj6fK_zz-jI/AAAAAAAADN0/SnChGvKmxLA/s1600/Phelsuma_laticauda-37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8FaKpqzVkhE/Vj6fK_zz-jI/AAAAAAAADN0/SnChGvKmxLA/s400/Phelsuma_laticauda-37.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-65152493505970894442015-06-07T07:10:00.000-10:002015-06-12T20:12:34.796-10:00A Native Sedge for the Garden<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F6v5kOi006c/VXR4euO-amI/AAAAAAAADMY/dgZwXtW4XjE/s1600/Carex_wahuensis-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F6v5kOi006c/VXR4euO-amI/AAAAAAAADMY/dgZwXtW4XjE/s400/Carex_wahuensis-3.jpg" width="400" /></a>There is a native Hawaiian sedge that has become
occasionally available where native plants are sold. It can also sometimes be
seen in local landscapes. It has no native Hawaiian name but is known by the
scientific name of <i>Carex wahuensis</i>
and some people call it O‘ahu sedge. “Wahu” is an old name for O‘ahu in some
early texts.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Carex wahuensis</i> is
an endemic Hawaiian species, meaning it is found in the wild only in Hawai‘i. It
can be found on all the main Hawaiian islands except Ni‘ihau and Kaho‘olawe. Many
people think of sedges as wetland species but this sedge is found naturally in
native forests that are dry (annual rainfall of less than 50 inches) or mesic
(rainfall from 50 to 100 inches a year) up to elevations of about 3,300 feet and
is sometimes found in coastal areas. It usually grows in rocky soils and is
most often found in the understory of forests on ridges, on slopes or in gulches.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1PtBjs5v1HU/VXR4x4uPRDI/AAAAAAAADMs/5oPuhPS0qgs/s1600/Carex_wahuensis-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1PtBjs5v1HU/VXR4x4uPRDI/AAAAAAAADMs/5oPuhPS0qgs/s400/Carex_wahuensis-5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A <i>Carex wahuensis</i> in the wild.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This is a clumping sedge that may grow up to 4 feet tall but
is usually between 1 and 2 feet tall. It most often gets between 1 and 2 feet
wide. The leaves are a deep green solid color and have a slightly rough texture
on their lower surface. They are usually about a ¼ to <span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;">⅓</span> inch wide but can get up to ½
inch wide and about 1 to 2 feet long. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Most of the year there are no flowers but once or sometimes
twice a year, usually in late winter to early spring, inflorescences appear
among the leaves. The flowers themselves are insignificant and not particularly
noticeable but the flower spike itself is usually a tan to dark brown, making
it noticeable. It has two to three smaller side spikes. The flowers are
followed in two months or so by fairly attractive green to yellowish green or
reddish brown to dark red fruit.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s natural growth form and native habitat makes <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Carex wahuensis</i> a natural for
landscapes. It works very well as an edging plant or in a mass planting as a
ground cover. It does well in full to partial shade and even in full sun.
Because it is native to dry forests, it does not need irrigation once it is
established. This makes it a good candidate for xeriscape gardening. It should
not be planted in water-logged soils and prefers well drained soils. Space the
plants about 1 to 1½ feet on center to get a solid cover.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jE6dD9fh41M/VXR4o7QH2lI/AAAAAAAADMk/0ZBj8Ekuf0Q/s1600/Carex_wahuensis-32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="272" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jE6dD9fh41M/VXR4o7QH2lI/AAAAAAAADMk/0ZBj8Ekuf0Q/s400/Carex_wahuensis-32.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seedlings nearly ready for transplanting.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k36iadZv_DY/VXR40QeiXlI/AAAAAAAADNE/pm97yx8UDjQ/s1600/Carex_wahuensis-33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k36iadZv_DY/VXR40QeiXlI/AAAAAAAADNE/pm97yx8UDjQ/s400/Carex_wahuensis-33.jpg" width="392" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Recently transplanted seedlings.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It also does well in pots and can even be used as an
interior plant. It can be grown in regular potting mix and does best in pots 8
inches or larger and should never dry out completely but does not need to be
consistently moist like many houseplants. It should be rotated outside from
time to time to keep it healthy unless it gets consistently bright light and
good air circulation.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As a landscape plant and even as a potted plant, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Carex wahuensis</i> is remarkably resistant
to pests. Very young seedlings might be susceptible to some slug damage but
they can usually outgrow and then become resistant to those garden pests. plants
that are kept too wet may succumb to fungal disease or they may sometimes get
root mealy bugs.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In the landscape <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Carex
wahuensis</i> does not need any added fertilizer unless the soil is
exceptionally sterile. In pots, a slow-release fertilizer is needed to keep
them healthy. Apply small amounts of fertilizer about once a year unless the
potting mix used for repotting has fertilizer in it already.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RAglMUJIfyI/VXR4yADC3RI/AAAAAAAADM0/1MAIiTONwyQ/s1600/Carex_wahuensis-28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RAglMUJIfyI/VXR4yADC3RI/AAAAAAAADM0/1MAIiTONwyQ/s640/Carex_wahuensis-28.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Carex wahuensis</i> used in a landscape to soften a sidewalk.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Carex wahuensis</i> is
easily propagated from seeds. Collect fruit when they are ripe. You know they
are ripe when they strip off the plants with just slight pressure. If it takes
any extra effort to strip off the seeds, wait a week or two and try again. Dry
the seeds and store them in the crisper of the fridge for a month or two.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8QITlGWGn94/VXR40jByYAI/AAAAAAAADNA/u5vzmL7rx2s/s1600/Carex_wahuensis-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8QITlGWGn94/VXR40jByYAI/AAAAAAAADNA/u5vzmL7rx2s/s400/Carex_wahuensis-6.jpg" width="288" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green fruit should be ready for harvesting a a fews weeks.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Sow seeds in a community pot on standard potting mix and
cover them with a light dusting of potting mix. Water well and keep the seed
pot moist until they germinate. They will pretty much all come up at the same
time so when most of the seedlings are about an inch tall transplant them into
individual 4-inch pots or cell packs. Keep the potting mix moist until the
plants are 3 or 4 inches tall and then slow down on the watering before
planting in to the landscape, unless where they will be planted has regularly
moist soil. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It is possible to divide larger clumps of this sedge as a
means of propagation, but because it is so easy to grow from seeds this method
isn’t really needed. Division is actually easier using potted plants than those
dug up from the garden. To divide a mature plant, remove the plant from the pot
and gently tease it apart at its natural divisions. Put up each clump and keep
moist until established.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Side shoots can be teased away from parent plants and potted
up to get more plants, just make sure the side shoot has actual stem tissue and
preferably some roots attached. Pot them up in moist potting mix and keep them
out of direct sun until new the plants show signs of growth.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Plants are sometimes sold at Home Depot and Lowe’s or other
nursery or garden centers. I most often see them in 6-inch pots for $5 or $6.
It takes a little longer, but you can get more plants for cheaper if you can
find a friend willing to share seeds from their garden.<o:p></o:p></div>
HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-7371285204356916912014-10-13T20:17:00.001-10:002014-10-29T20:40:01.938-10:00`Ōlena – Hawaiian for Turmeric<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0yng35GNLTw/VDy9riZ7SoI/AAAAAAAADIQ/AZ3CBjw-NBQ/s1600/IMG_5412.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0yng35GNLTw/VDy9riZ7SoI/AAAAAAAADIQ/AZ3CBjw-NBQ/s1600/IMG_5412.jpg" height="378" width="640" /></a></div>
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Why is there a Hawaiian name for a spice known pretty much
throughout the world? The perfectly good reason that turmeric is in Hawaii, and
has a Hawaiian name, is because it was one of the “canoe plants.” Canoe plants
are those brought to Hawaii with the original Polynesians.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CVkVSbWxaKc/VDy9Fan-ieI/AAAAAAAADHg/RDZOoe17cAY/s1600/Curcuma_longa-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CVkVSbWxaKc/VDy9Fan-ieI/AAAAAAAADHg/RDZOoe17cAY/s1600/Curcuma_longa-3.jpg" height="307" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The true flowers peak out from the ornamental bracts.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Hawaiians call it <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">`ōlena</i>.
In English it is known as turmeric. In India, its likely origin, it is called <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">haldi</i>. Botanists call it <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Curcuma longa</i> and it is in the same
family as ginger and heliconia, the Zingiberaceae. It is an herbaceous plant
that goes dormant in the winter season here in Hawaii.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Like bananas, curcuma is a human-dependent plant. That is,
it does not propagate by seeds but can only spread vegetatively. But it is
easily propagated from the rhizomes, just like ginger. More on that later.<o:p></o:p></div>
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`<i>Ōlena </i>is still cultivated in Hawaii, even grown by some
farmers commercially. It can be found in the “wild” at old planting sites on
Molokai, Maui, and the Big Island. Unlike the `awapuhi from the last post, it
has not naturalized or spread from cultivation.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Mo0nG9B2i4U/VDy9DMwhQfI/AAAAAAAADHU/04CsLnvfiCw/s1600/Curcuma_longa-23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Mo0nG9B2i4U/VDy9DMwhQfI/AAAAAAAADHU/04CsLnvfiCw/s1600/Curcuma_longa-23.jpg" height="400" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A new planting of <i style="text-align: start;">`ōlena.</i></td></tr>
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It is a nice-looking plant. Leaves grow from underground
rhizomes. They range in height from 1.5 to 5 feet. I’ve found that newly
planted clumps usually are on the shorter size and longer-established plants
send up leaves around 5 feet tall. The leaf blades themselves are 1 to 1.5 feet
long and 3 to 7 inches wide, usually lightly curled back on itself, making it look
a bit slimmer. They are smooth to the touch (no hairs) and have prominent parallel
veins giving them a textured look. They are usually a light green color.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Inflorescences arise from the center of the leaves. They are
cylinder-shaped and made of loosely open bracts that are very white or tinged
pink at the top of the cylinder and green at the base of the cylinder. The true
flowers peak out from these green bracts and are tube-shaped, usually white
with a yellow center and have two “fangs” that point down from the mouth of the
tube.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fruit are never formed, even
though the flowers do have male and female parts.<o:p></o:p></div>
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All of the above-ground parts come from the main reason this
plant is grown, the rhizomes. These look like smaller versions of edible ginger
rhizomes. They have a dark tan outer layer and are highly branched. The
“fingers” or branches are one to three inches long and about a half inch in
diameter. When cut or broken, the inside is a deep yellow, orange or reddish
orange. Unlike edible ginger that grows horizontally, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">`ōlena</i> grows vertically, with the fingers facing down.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o6OmcMJhS08/VDy88o7HtYI/AAAAAAAADHE/-UdL27Ma7f0/s1600/Curcuma_longa-12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o6OmcMJhS08/VDy88o7HtYI/AAAAAAAADHE/-UdL27Ma7f0/s1600/Curcuma_longa-12.jpg" height="261" width="320" /></a></div>
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Although the underground parts are often called “roots” they
are really rhizomes. Rhizomes are underground stems. The real roots are solid
white and come from the rhizomes. They should be brushed off, cut or torn from
the harvested rhizomes.<o:p></o:p></div>
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`<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ōlena</i> is
deciduous. In Hawaii it emerges from the rhizomes around March and dies back in
September or October. It is much like `<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">awapuhi</i>
that way and has a similar growing season. Getting back to the "rhizomes are stems" statement above, you can see that when the above-ground parts die back -- it is
very similar to deciduous trees or shrubs losing their leaves and going
dormant.<o:p></o:p></div>
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So that brings us back to how <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">`ōlena</i> is propagated – from stem cuttings. The rhizomes are cut or
broken into pieces 1 to 2 inches long with at least one growing point, or bud.
These are planted directly where they will grow, or started in pots and later
transplanted into the garden. If they are planted in January or February, the
leaves will emerge in March, similar to an established clump.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wuwuqS8avG4/VDy9NzYKcGI/AAAAAAAADIM/GAWeWjcLSms/s1600/Curcuma_longa-93.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wuwuqS8avG4/VDy9NzYKcGI/AAAAAAAADIM/GAWeWjcLSms/s1600/Curcuma_longa-93.jpg" height="400" width="291" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The inflorescences are quite ornamental and appear<br />
in greater numbers on older clumps.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
`<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ōlena</i> grows in
full sun to partial shade. It can tolerate full dappled shade but prefers at
least a few hours of direct sun. If grown in full sun it prefers to have its
roots consistently moist, but not wet. Waterlogged soils will rot the rhizomes
and kill the plant. Very heavy soils will cause the rhizomes to be stunted or
misshaped. The ideal soil is a well-drained, moist loam. Organic mulch is a
good idea both to build up a good loam as well as retain soil moisture.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Although a rhizome can be harvested at any time, it is best
to harvest whole clumps just after the tops have died back. All the rhizomes
can be dug up and separated or just the just portions of a clump can be
harvested. It all depends on how much of the herb you want to use, share with
friends, or sell.<o:p></o:p></div>
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`<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ōlena</i> can be used
fresh or is more often used as a dried powder. To make turmeric powder, the
rhizomes are boiled for half an hour or so, thoroughly dried in the sun or a
dehydrator and then pulverized. This is the form of the herb most often
available in the spice section of the grocery store.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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It most well-known culinary use is in curries. It adds it
own flavor as well as the yellow or orange color. Curry powder is a mix of
spices that usually consists of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">`ōlena</i>
(turmeric), coriander, cumin seeds, fenugreek seeds, chili, mustard seeds,
black peppercorns and salt. But the fresh rhizomes can be added to dishes and
even the leaves are sometimes used to wrap around meat before cooking to impart
a flavor to the final product.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hF79hbKRnTA/VDy9u4B_H5I/AAAAAAAADIc/gtbNkbIKKtw/s1600/IMG_5408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hF79hbKRnTA/VDy9u4B_H5I/AAAAAAAADIc/gtbNkbIKKtw/s1600/IMG_5408.jpg" height="318" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The rhizomes grow vertically into the soil at the base of the leaves.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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`<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ōlena</i> is used
around the world for medicinal purposes. It is well known for it’s
antibacterial properties and there are many claims in its effectiveness for treating
various ailments. Some of those claims are being researched for their
effectiveness and some are not confirmed by western medicine. This isn’t a
health blog, so I won’t <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>get into any of
those details.<o:p></o:p></div>
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`<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ōlena</i> can be
grown in pots. They need at least a 5-gallon pot and it’s deciduous nature
needs to be taken into consideration. It won’t be decorative year round, for
example. Also, soil in pots tends to dry out more completely than soils in the
ground, so care should be taken to make sure the potting medium never gets too
dry. Even when the plants are dormant, the pots should be watered from time to time
to make sure the rhizomes don’t wither and dry.<o:p></o:p></div>
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They also make ornamental plantings in a flower bed. But
again, their deciduous nature needs to be considered. When they are dormant,
shallow-rooted annuals can be planted over the underground rhizomes to keep the
bed attractive. The clumps will grow in diameter over time and that needs to be
considered as well. It may be best to thin or replant every two or three years
to keep them under control.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VTUttGQRenE/VDy9MI-tADI/AAAAAAAADIE/jVGyACg1yCU/s1600/Curcuma_longa-56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VTUttGQRenE/VDy9MI-tADI/AAAAAAAADIE/jVGyACg1yCU/s1600/Curcuma_longa-56.jpg" height="640" width="395" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e25rGB6EB2o/VDy9wvnO71I/AAAAAAAADIk/vgqjzy-mUMo/s1600/IMG_5424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e25rGB6EB2o/VDy9wvnO71I/AAAAAAAADIk/vgqjzy-mUMo/s1600/IMG_5424.jpg" height="381" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The yellow center of an <i style="text-align: start;">`ōlena </i><span style="text-align: start;">rhizome</span><i style="text-align: start;">.</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n8OjZ97WTpo/VDy8-BEJl3I/AAAAAAAADHM/Yr4TCWZxfkQ/s1600/Curcuma_longa-105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n8OjZ97WTpo/VDy8-BEJl3I/AAAAAAAADHM/Yr4TCWZxfkQ/s1600/Curcuma_longa-105.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's not dying or sick, it's just going dormant.</td></tr>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rQWMjNe8jdM/VDy9CRTzsII/AAAAAAAADHY/XwoxGZnLMaw/s1600/Curcuma_longa-27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rQWMjNe8jdM/VDy9CRTzsII/AAAAAAAADHY/XwoxGZnLMaw/s1600/Curcuma_longa-27.jpg" height="436" width="640" /></a></div>
HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-82387282227549411962014-07-30T12:40:00.000-10:002014-07-30T12:42:31.004-10:00`Awapuhi − Shampoo GingerThere are a few Hawaiian words that are known almost
worldwide. “Aloha” and “mahalo” are two of them, but thanks to
commercialization of this plant introduced to Hawaii by the Polynesians,
`awapuhi is another one.<br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9lXGL7Vq9b8/U9lluk65t7I/AAAAAAAADEY/TNdmtIquAYo/s1600/Zingiber_zerumbet-34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9lXGL7Vq9b8/U9lluk65t7I/AAAAAAAADEY/TNdmtIquAYo/s1600/Zingiber_zerumbet-34.jpg" height="400" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">`Awapuhi clump in the garden.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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One of the “canoe plants,” `awapuhi is naturalized on Kauai,
Oahu, Molokai, Lanai Maui and Hawaii and can be found in most mesic forests
certain times of the year. In some places it even becomes a dominant ground cover
in forests, though it is not nearly as aggressive as post-Western-contact ornamental
gingers that have escaped and become ecosystem-altering weeds in wet forests.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Zingiber zerumbet</i> (Zingiberaceae),
also known as shampoo ginger and pinecone ginger in English, is probably native
to India but has been spread by humans throughout Asia and the Pacific. Polynesians
had good reason to bring this plant with them on their canoes. It has many
uses, among them as a shampoo, as the English name makes so obvious.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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`Awaupuhi is a deciduous ginger, meaning it goes dormant for
a portion of the year. Somewhat surprisingly, that part of the year is the wet
season (our “winter”) when one might not even know the plants are there. Come
spring, with the lessening of the rains and slight drying of the soils, shoots
emerge from the surface or underground rhizomes. The shoots are usually light
green and look like typical ginger shoots, with blades arranged on either side
of a main “stem.” At first glance the leaves took shiny and smooth but if you
touch them you can feel slight fuzz on the leaves and the stalks.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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The plants found in the wild in Hawaii, those that were
introduced by Polynesians, usually don’t grow more than 2 or 3 feet tall and in
some areas not more than about a foot tall. Non-Hawaiian varieties can grow up
to 6½ feet tall.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jrm1jh2Q7EY/U9lk7FtrJ4I/AAAAAAAADD4/EwsHXB1tzsk/s1600/Zingiber_zerumbet-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jrm1jh2Q7EY/U9lk7FtrJ4I/AAAAAAAADD4/EwsHXB1tzsk/s1600/Zingiber_zerumbet-1.jpg" height="400" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The true flowers emerge from behind the<br />
bracts of the "club."</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The flower spikes soon follow the shoots. This is the
“shampoo” part of the plant. The flower spikes look like green clubs nestled
among the foliage. The “club” end starts out green and fairly compact and
elongates slightly as the months pass and eventually turn light to dark red.
Soon after emerging from the ground the flowers start appearing between the
scales of the club end of the inflorescence. These are the true flowers and may
be white, a pale yellow or even a dark yellow, or some combination. They are
tube-shaped and ¾ to 1 inch long. The flowering starts at the base of the
“club” and eventually ends when the uppermost flower has emerged.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Fruit are usually hidden inside the club and rarely noticed
and are red and roughly egg-shaped and about ½ inch long and ⅓ inch wide.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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The rhizomes look like smaller versions of edible ginger
rhizomes. They are often just below the surface of the soil but in dense stands
they may run along the top of the ground. Or, they may be exposed after a heavy
rain event that washes away the surface soil. Or, in the wild, pigs may root
around the ginger, exposing the rhizomes they don’t eat.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5_7xKBJsbiA/U9llDtOiY-I/AAAAAAAADEA/d0ZKGIX0jgc/s1600/Zingiber_zerumbet-31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5_7xKBJsbiA/U9llDtOiY-I/AAAAAAAADEA/d0ZKGIX0jgc/s1600/Zingiber_zerumbet-31.jpg" height="400" width="226" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The inflorescences elongate and turn red<br />
as they age.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Hawaiians had several uses for `awapuhi. The sap that is
easily squeezed from the inflorescence was used as a body soap and shampoo. It
is slightly fragrant and suds up a bit when used like shampoo. The rhizomes
were dried and then powdered and that powder was used to scent kappa, the bark
cloth used as clothing. The leaves were wrapped around meat during the cooking
process to add some flavor and the ashes of the leaves were used medicinally.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
Around the world these and other uses are made of this
plant. It has recorded medicinal uses for <span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">sprains, indigestion, stomachache, and toothaches. There are
claims of its effectiveness in controlling inflammation, tumors, allergies and
bleeding. There is </span><a href="http://www.phytojournal.com/vol2Issue3/Issue_sep_2013/30.1.pdf"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">scientific evidence</span></a><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> that it has antioxidant properties.
It is also used as food and flavoring in several cuisines. But this is a gardening
blog, and not an herbal medicine blog.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">In the
garden `awapuhi make a nice specimen planting during the summer months, works
very well under fruit and other trees or can be planted in a flower border or
herb garden. Remember, though that it will die back every year and it has a
fairly thick rhizome matt just under the soils surface that may leave a blank
in the garden for a while. This can be taken care of by planting shallow-rooted
annuals during after the tops have died back. I find that cosmos work well.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gbw-9_BKQJw/U9ll3eNa4KI/AAAAAAAADEg/LDDeIY6EXc4/s1600/Zingiber_zerumbet-37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gbw-9_BKQJw/U9ll3eNa4KI/AAAAAAAADEg/LDDeIY6EXc4/s1600/Zingiber_zerumbet-37.jpg" height="400" width="291" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inflorescences hide among the foliage. Squeeze the<br />
"shampoo" out of these for a pleasantly scented<br />
body wash.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Be
aware that if well cared for, the `awapuhi can spread and get rather dense.
This may desirable or not, depending on how it is being used. Under fruit trees
this might be a good thing, protecting the soil under the tree and keep
lawnmowers and weedeaters away from trunks, but in a flower bed or herb garden
it might be a problem. Luckily, the rhizomes are easy enough to dig up in order
to keep the sand under control.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">`Awapuhi
can tolerate some drought – after all, they send up their shots during the dry
season. In full sun or excessively well-drained soils though, they may need
some supplemental watering during the driest months. Or, if they are grown in a
container, they will need regular watering to keep the potting mix moist.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
`Awapuhi is best known for its “shampoo” but there are some
cultures that use it as a flavoring. As mentioned above, Hawaiians wrapped the
leaves around meat to impart a flavor. I have found the flowers to be a nice
addition to a tossed salad (the true flowers, not the “club”) adding a slight ginger
flavor.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Although the rhizomes look like smaller versions of the
typical edible ginger (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Zingiber
officianale</i>) they are bitter and have a more earthy smell (similar to fresh
turmeric) and are not normally eaten. They can be juiced and small amounts of
that juice can be used to flavor a smoothie, tea or other drink, but be
conservative in its use – a little goes a long way.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PY1SHOFKjC4/U9ll7tXRtSI/AAAAAAAADEo/CowEdw4qPqU/s1600/Zingiber_zerumbet-53.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PY1SHOFKjC4/U9ll7tXRtSI/AAAAAAAADEo/CowEdw4qPqU/s1600/Zingiber_zerumbet-53.jpg" height="325" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rhizomes are the easiest way to propagate `awapuhi.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The inflorescences can be cut and used in flower
arrangements. They are long-lasting but can be top-heavy – it’s all that
shampoo sap in them. They require a heavy container to keep the arrangement
from tipping over easily.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I have seen specimens of `awapuhi sometimes sold at home
improvement centers or local hardware stores or nurseries, but it isn’t always
commercially available. It is very easily propagated from rhizomes so friends
can share them easily enough. A small piece of rhizome with a fresh growing
point or two will grow into a clump about 1 or 2 feet in diameter in a year or
so under good growing conditions.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Collecting from the wild is tempting but keep in mind there
are legal restrictions. Collecting any plant material requires a permit on
State land and taking plants from private land is stealing if you don’t have
prior permission. Federal lands have their own rules and regulations regarding
plant collecting. To be on the safe side, get a plant form a friend or buy it
from a reputable source.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8_hwgKtUovU/U9llswuuHlI/AAAAAAAADEQ/xkT--iAHJWw/s1600/Zingiber_zerumbet-42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8_hwgKtUovU/U9llswuuHlI/AAAAAAAADEQ/xkT--iAHJWw/s1600/Zingiber_zerumbet-42.jpg" height="640" width="593" /></a></div>
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HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-61098359007686111742014-07-23T20:28:00.000-10:002014-07-23T20:37:34.959-10:00An Adaptable Native Peperomia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BfU7dRUSQ8c/U9CjPdvoUDI/AAAAAAAADDk/LR6asiiTKgQ/s1600/Peperomia_blanda_floribunda-24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BfU7dRUSQ8c/U9CjPdvoUDI/AAAAAAAADDk/LR6asiiTKgQ/s1600/Peperomia_blanda_floribunda-24.jpg" height="378" width="640" /></a></div>
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If you are of a certain generation, namely, an older one,
you may know <i>Peperomia</i> as a somewhat
finicky houseplant that came in a variety of types. But did you know that
Hawaii has its own group of <i>Peperomia</i>
species, most that are only found in Hawaii?</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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This article is about a native <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Peperomia</i>, but one that is native to Hawaii as well as other parts
of the world (otherwise known as indigenous). Scientifically known as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Peperomia blanda</i> var. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">floribunda</i>, it was known to Hawaiians as
ala ala wai nui. It is one of the more common native <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Peperomia</i> and can be found in the wild on almost all the main
Hawaiian Islands (Niihau, Kauai, Oahu, Molokai, Lanai, Maui and Hawaii), even in
relatively disturbed forests. It is also native from Micronesia; Queensland, Australia and most of Polynesia and Melanesia.</div>
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Hawaiians had other names for <i>Peperomia. </i>These include:</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Ala ala wai nui kane</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Ala ala wai nui kupa lii</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Ala ala wai nui pehu</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Ala ala wai nui pohina</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Awalauakane</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Kupaoa</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Kupalii (Hawaii Island)</span></li>
<li><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"><br /></span></li>
</ul>
<span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Taxonomists have other names for </span><i style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Peperomia blanda</i><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"> var. </span><i style="text-indent: -0.25in;">floribunda</i><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">.
They are:</span><br />
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<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><i style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Peperomia
leptostachya</i></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><i style="text-indent: -0.25in;">P.
candoilei</i></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><i style="text-indent: -0.25in;">P.
insularum</i></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><i style="text-indent: -0.25in;">P. leptostachya </i><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">f.</span><i style="text-indent: -0.25in;"> carnosior</i></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><i style="text-indent: -0.25in;">P.
leptostachya </i><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">var</span><i style="text-indent: -0.25in;">. nodosa</i></li>
</ul>
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In the forests of Hawaii <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Peperomia
blanda</i> var. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">floribunda</i> plants tend
to grow on boulders, cliff ledges, on rough aa lava and sometimes in the
crotches of woody plants in dry (less than 50 inches of rainfall a year), mesic
(between 50 and 100 inches rainfall) and sometimes even in wet (greater than
100 inches rainfall) forests. It can be usually be found at elevations from 30
feet (practically coastal) to 2,000 feet and has even rarely been found growing
as high as 5,500 feet.</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QuVZjp55-Yo/U9CjBDQW0HI/AAAAAAAADDc/a9fh49rbEiA/s1600/Peperomia_blanda_floribunda-38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QuVZjp55-Yo/U9CjBDQW0HI/AAAAAAAADDc/a9fh49rbEiA/s1600/Peperomia_blanda_floribunda-38.jpg" height="331" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Growing in the wild on a rock formation along a trail in a dry forest<br />
on Oahu.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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A plant that grows on ledges, rocks or branches of other
plants, in dry or moist forests, often in full sun or partial shade, hints at
its versatility as a potted plant. It is very well adapted to growing alongside
succulent plants like jade plants or even alongside potted cactus plants.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Peperomia blanda</i>
var. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">floribunda</i> is an herbaceous
plant with green or reddish stems that either grow upright or first spread a
bit and then grow upright. Depending on growing conditions it can be a small
plant of just an inch or two tall (these are usually in very dry sites) or up
to 6 or so inches tall and as wide.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
leaves are a pointy egg-shape and are a darker green on the top and a lighter
green below. The leaves can fall off quite easily, when they hit against
something or during times of stress.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Like all <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Peperomia</i>,
this ala ala wai nui is in the pepper family, or Piperaceae. This is the same
family of the spice black pepper (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Piper</i>
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">nigrum</i>) and the beverage awa or kava
(<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Piper methysticum</i>). The
distinguishing characteristic of the pepper family are the flower spikes. These
are thin spikes with almost invisible flowers. The spikes of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">P. blanda</i> var <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">floribunda</i> are found both along the stems and at the growing point.
They range in length from 1<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Lucida Grande"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">¾</span></b> to 5 inches long. The
seeds are very small (smaller than a poppy seed) and sticky and can be hard to
spot, let alone collect. <o:p></o:p></div>
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There are 26 species of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Peperomia</i>
found in the wild in Hawaii and 25 of those are native and all but two of those
are endemic (found only in Hawaii). They range in habitat types and growth
habits, and are sometimes difficult to identify to species. Very little work
has been done on our native <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Peperomia</i>
species for their horticultural value but there are bound to be several that
would be suitable for houseplants or specimen plants in our landscapes. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Peperomia blanda</i> var. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">floribunda</i> certainly has proven its
mettle in my collection.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z_LfVJNARsQ/U9Ci1mGItGI/AAAAAAAADDM/vT5FEzSzpLU/s1600/Peperomia_blanda_floribunda-20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z_LfVJNARsQ/U9Ci1mGItGI/AAAAAAAADDM/vT5FEzSzpLU/s1600/Peperomia_blanda_floribunda-20.jpg" height="400" width="330" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In a 6-inch cement pot along-side my other cacti and<br />
succulents.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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If grown in a pot, it should be in very well-drained potting
mix (add some black cinder or sharp sand to a typical potting mix) or use a
porous container like a cement or clay pot. And like succulents or cacti, it
can be grown in full sun. It also does well, but gets a little leggier, in
partial or even mostly full shade.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">At my place, I have it both in a cement pot and growing in a
crotch of a tangerine tree. The plant in the pot is treated the same
way I treat my golden barrel cactus or agave plants and other succulents. My climate is classified
as mesic and I get a decent amount of rain most of the year, so I never even
bother watering the potted specimen unless it hasn’t rained for three or more
weeks. The plant in the tree is on it’s own, I don’t bother watering it at all,
no matter the weather. I treat it the same as I do the nonnative epiphytic
orchids I have in some of my trees – basically ignore it only to admire it from
time to time as I’m working in or around my tangerine tree.</span></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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As an epiphyte, the nutrient needs of this plant are fairly
minimal. As a matter of fact, they don’t do too well with too much chemical
fertilizers. It would take many years for the peat or coir in potting mix to
degrade enough to require adding chemical fertilizers to a potted specimen, but
if fertilizer seems to be indicated, use only <span style="color: black; font-family: "Lucida Grande"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">¼ </span><span style="color: black;">of amount recommended for
potted houseplants. Plants growing on a rock wall or in a crotch or a branch of
a tree don’t need any supplemental fertilizer.</span></div>
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I find the potted version prefers to be outdoors. I will
bring it in the house for a week or two at a time for decoration, but it spends
most of its time out with the potted cacti and succulents. I might be able to
get a specimen that adapts itself to the lower light conditions of my living
room or office, but I haven’t gotten around to doing that just yet.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OxV7vSE2TTc/U9CjUYT3wvI/AAAAAAAADDs/INij5Al2vmA/s1600/Peperomia_blanda_floribunda-33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OxV7vSE2TTc/U9CjUYT3wvI/AAAAAAAADDs/INij5Al2vmA/s1600/Peperomia_blanda_floribunda-33.jpg" height="350" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In a crotch of a tangerine tree.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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This species of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Peperomia</i>,
when grown under its preferred conditions, has few pests. Slugs may nibble it
but tend to not be a problem. Mealy bugs may show up in the joints between the
leaf and stem, but, again, rarely. The main problem with this species is
overwatering. Too much water, or poor soil drainage, and rot sets in, killing the
plant in very little time.<o:p></o:p></div>
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So far I have only propagated this species using stem cuttings.
Some species of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Peperomia</i> can be
grown from leaf cuttings, but I have not experimented with that method yet. The
small sticky seeds are hard to collect and I have not tried growing it from
seeds yet either. If I get around to trying either of those methods and have
any luck, I’ll write about it in a later post.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I have sometimes seen this <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Peperomia</i> in the native plant section of nurseries of home
improvement stores and some native Hawaiian plant nurseries may have it for
sale from time to time. It might also sometimes be found at native plant sales,
but so far, it is one of those rare but pleasant discoveries one may find when
browsing a nursery when looking for something else.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hE2Oi7PB0JA/U9Ci0zjJMxI/AAAAAAAADDI/cYg2EEwJJUc/s1600/Peperomia_blanda_floribunda-21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hE2Oi7PB0JA/U9Ci0zjJMxI/AAAAAAAADDI/cYg2EEwJJUc/s1600/Peperomia_blanda_floribunda-21.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical flower spikes of plants in the Piperaceae.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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If you have a friend growing it ask for a small branch or
two. Remove the leaves from the lowest two or three nodes and stick the cutting
in moist, well-draining potting mix. You don’t need to use any rooting powder
or hormone. Keep the mix moist but never wet. Roots will form in four to six
weeks and new growth just a little after that. Don’t yank on the cutting to
find out if it has roots, just wait for any new growth. Repot if you need to
and then treat the new plant as you would other succulent potted plants.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Sometimes a potted plant will have some branches growing along
the soil surface and already have some roots formed. If you can get one of
these, you are almost guaranteed success. Just pot it up in a pot with
well-drained potting mix and keep the medium moist for a week or two and then
start limiting the water. Your new plant should fill a 4-inch pot in a few
months. Leave it in that pot or go up to a 6-inch pot at the most. Too big of a
pot for these normally epiphytic plants is overkill and will most likely end up
with over watering and rot.<o:p></o:p></div>
HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-68246899354672422952014-07-05T12:24:00.001-10:002014-07-05T12:24:33.874-10:00Mapping Invasive Species<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;">T</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">he Nature Conservancy recently launched the “Hawai</span><span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">‘</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">i Challenge,” a
crowdsourcing campaign to help save the islands’ remaining native forests.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri;">Less
than 50% of Hawaii’s native forests still thrive in high-elevation, remote
areas of our islands, but invasive weeds and other human impacts threaten them.
The “Hawaii Challenge” targets two plants that started as ornamentals, but have
become invasive: the Australian tree fern and the African tulip tree. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri;">Through
DigitalGlobe’s online crowdsourcing platform, Tomnod, anyone can contribute to
saving native Hawaiian forests by tagging the locations of invasive weeds in
high-resolution aerial images. Visit </span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri;"><a href="http://nature.ly/1vw5voZ"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">http://nature.ly/1vw5voZ</span></a></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri;"> to
start. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UTLGopZtaQU/U7h5LEwQ_7I/AAAAAAAADCw/cnj7W6FGi4Q/s1600/Tomnod_screen_capture.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UTLGopZtaQU/U7h5LEwQ_7I/AAAAAAAADCw/cnj7W6FGi4Q/s1600/Tomnod_screen_capture.jpg" height="333" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here is a screenshot of my Tomnod "Hawaii Challenge" session. The green circles are where I've identified mature Australian tree ferns. There are other symbols for partial Australian tree ferns and for tulip trees. The process can be a bit tedious but the program gives some feedback. When you've identified one of the invasive plants there is a little pop-up that tells you how many other people have identified the same thing. There is also a record of what you've looked at in the upper right of the screen -- how many photo tiles you've looked at, how many plants you've tagged and how may people have agreed with those tags. Also, when you reach certain milestones, like number of plants or a certain area covered, you get a little congratulatory pop-up. This isn't a fast, action paced video game, but a good way to multi-task while relaxing.<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri;">By crowdsourcing the project, The Nature
Conservancy staff in Hawaii seeks to identify the number and location of these
invasive plants much more quickly than they could on their own, as well as
provide a quality check to the individual currently doing the image
analysis.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 10.0pt; tab-stops: 241.65pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri;">DigitalGlobe is best known for its work with rescue
and response crises like the missing <span style="color: black;">Malaysian
Airlines Flight 370. This is their first environmental project. </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri;">This
project uses Conservancy-provided high-resolution aerial photography of 3,000
acres of Kauai’s remote rainforest. If successful, thousands more acres—and
images—will be analyzed from across the state.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri;">I’ve
been trying this while watching TV (see screenshot above). Probably not the intense attention to
detail someone who is getting paid to review the images gives the effort, but
it does allow me to feel like I’m doing a little to help tracking the spread of
these two invasive species. It’s little payback for the privilege of gardening
in Hawaii and making up a little for the invasive species brought into the
State by the horticulture industry.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-12291499677067877962014-06-01T16:25:00.000-10:002014-06-01T16:25:58.703-10:00Ice Cream Banana<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JIhZ-edICFU/U4vfhPCF5nI/AAAAAAAADA0/TzDjdS3Ep9I/s1600/Musa_acuminata_%C3%97_balbisiana_ABB+Group_Blue_Java-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JIhZ-edICFU/U4vfhPCF5nI/AAAAAAAADA0/TzDjdS3Ep9I/s1600/Musa_acuminata_%C3%97_balbisiana_ABB+Group_Blue_Java-9.jpg" height="400" width="362" /></a></div>
Lots of folks who grow bananas in Hawaii grow apple bananas,
and for good reasons. It is certainly one of my favorite bananas. But I’m
learning to like another banana almost as much. It’s called the ice cream
banana.<br /><div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It goes by a few other names, including “Blue Java,” “Hawaiian
banana,” “Ney Mannan,” “Krie,” or “Cenizo.” “Blue Java” is the official
cultivar and though we grow it here in in Hawaii, no one in Hawaii calls it the
“Hawaiian Banana” – probably because there are so many “native” Hawaiian
cultivars of banana. “Hawaiian Banana” is what they call it in Fiji.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Scientifically, the ice cream banana is <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Musa acuminata</i> × <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">balbisiana</i>
‘Blue Java'. The “x” in this case means “crossed,” meaning the two species
listed are the “parents.” Apple bananas have the same parents, they are just a
different cultivar.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QrNSjdvDL1I/U4vfOFGuesI/AAAAAAAADAo/Z2msm_SmE0c/s1600/Musa_acuminata_%25C3%2597_balbisiana_ABB+Group_Blue_Java-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QrNSjdvDL1I/U4vfOFGuesI/AAAAAAAADAo/Z2msm_SmE0c/s1600/Musa_acuminata_%25C3%2597_balbisiana_ABB+Group_Blue_Java-3.jpg" height="400" width="240" /></a>Apple bananas are known for their long-lasting, firm and
slightly tart flesh (with peels that practically fall off). Ice cream bananas on
the other hand have sweeter, softer flesh with a vanilla flavor (and the peels
have a bit more substance). Some people equate the flavor with vanilla ice
cream, hence the name.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The plants themselves grow 15 to 20 feet tall and are
actually quite productive once they are established. A new planting will start
producing in 18 to 24 months and once they’ve started fruiting, a clump will
have two to three fruiting stalks at any one time.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The fruit bunch has 7 to 9 hands, which is considered a
short bunch. From first flowering to ripe fruit it takes about 6 months.
Sometimes a little less, sometimes a little longer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Like other bananas, it’s best to harvest the
whole bunch as soon as there are any signs of ripening.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Immature fruit of ice cream bananas are quite good looking.
They are a blue-green color that make a nice contract to the trunks and leaves.
The fruit ripens to a bright yellow when ripe.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gwYz0yCSPc4/U4vfeGisoEI/AAAAAAAADAw/YMW_DUlCCh0/s1600/Musa_acuminata_%25C3%2597_balbisiana_ABB+Group_Blue_Java-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gwYz0yCSPc4/U4vfeGisoEI/AAAAAAAADAw/YMW_DUlCCh0/s1600/Musa_acuminata_%25C3%2597_balbisiana_ABB+Group_Blue_Java-5.jpg" height="400" width="283" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue-green immature ice cream bananas.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Like most other bananas, they grow best in continuously
moist but not wet soils. They can tolerate a few dry months but if rain doesn’t
fall in decent amounts for more than three months where you live, they will
need some added irrigation.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Apple bananas do best in the humid lowlands but ice cream
bananas can actually take colder temperatures. So this means they can be grown
at higher elevations in Hawaii.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Like the apple banana the ice cream banana is very tolerant
of wind and so works very nicely as a planting upwind of wind-sensitive
plants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The do take up some space,
though, like most bananas so make sure you plant them where they can spread a
little. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
These are great dessert bananas. They can be used like any
other dessert bananas but I find them almost perfect for smoothies. Or, take
their name literally, freeze the flesh and other mash it or blenderize it to
make a totally natural ice cream alternative.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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These plants are sometimes available at Home Depot or Lowe’s
nursery departments or at fruit nurseries. They are easily propagated from side
shoots or suckers so if you have a friend with a clump you can always ask for a
keiki. <o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-45TwIQYBVx0/U4vfJ-HiJ0I/AAAAAAAADAg/GmI7cOIfvuM/s1600/Musa_acuminata_%25C3%2597_balbisiana_ABB+Group_Blue_Java-16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-45TwIQYBVx0/U4vfJ-HiJ0I/AAAAAAAADAg/GmI7cOIfvuM/s1600/Musa_acuminata_%25C3%2597_balbisiana_ABB+Group_Blue_Java-16.jpg" height="400" width="286" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A new bunch forming.</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-17465032899907827312014-05-18T12:31:00.000-10:002014-05-18T12:31:22.875-10:00Banana SkipperYou may have seen banana leaves behaving oddly and wondering
what’s up. One day you’ve got beautiful leaves that have somehow resisted being
torn up in a windstorm and then next day the leaves are all stripped and there
are rolled up portions hanging like some sort of natural decorations or banana
earrings.<br /><div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fw5klQZQPxk/U3kvudhtwKI/AAAAAAAAC_U/j5u6tVs8kHc/s1600/Erionota_thrax-136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fw5klQZQPxk/U3kvudhtwKI/AAAAAAAAC_U/j5u6tVs8kHc/s1600/Erionota_thrax-136.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first sign of a banana skipper infestation.</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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These banana-leaf rolls are the result of the larva, or
caterpillar, of the banana skipper, a nonnative butterfly that was first found
in Hawaii in 1973 on Oahu. It was introduced, hopefully accidentally, from
Guam. It had the potential to devastate all the bananas in Hawaii but luckily
there are some predators of the banana skipper that have kept the pest under manageable
numbers in Hawaii.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Scientifically the banana skipper is known as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Erionota thrax</i> and is also called banana
leaf-roller and palm redeye. Although it definitely prefers banana leaves, it
can also sometimes be found on coconut palms.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The caterpillars are rather large and a ghostly, powdery white and have
rather large frass (caterpillar poop) that falls out of the bottom of the
rolled up leaves. These frass can be hard to see on the ground unless the soil
is rather compacted or the leaves hang over a sidewalk.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The caterpillars emerge from bright yellow to orange-red
eggs, that later turn yellow. The eggs are placed singly on the lower surface
of leaves and sometimes they occur in clusters. Eggs hatch in 5 to 8 days.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The wings of the butterfly are chocolate-brown on the top
and the forewings have three pale yellow spots. The rear wings have a greyish-yellow
fringe. The bottom of the wings is lighter than the top and the body and legs
are pretty much the same color as the wings. The often have red eyes, giving
rise to one of their common names.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qylfk4xa8_M/U3kvonc7lAI/AAAAAAAAC_Q/xw2pmVd2kuQ/s1600/Erionota_thrax-112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qylfk4xa8_M/U3kvonc7lAI/AAAAAAAAC_Q/xw2pmVd2kuQ/s1600/Erionota_thrax-112.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Banana skipper caterpillar. Note the white powder<br />that the caterpillar generates.</td></tr>
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In addition to banana and coconut, the larva have been found
on bamboo, Manila hemp and other palms, canna, bird-of-paradise, and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Heliconia</i> species. The adults can be
seen flying round areas and landing on flowers or flying around gardens here
and there around twilight.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The parasites in Hawaii keep the banana skipper basically
under control. There are egg parasites, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ooencyrtus
erionatae</i>, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Anastatus</i> spp. and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Trichogramma</i> spp., a larval parasite, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Apanteles erionatae</i> and a pupal parasite
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Brachymeria obscurata</i> respectively. Two
of these, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ooencyrtus erionatae</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Apanteles erionatae</i> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>were brought in specifically to control the
banana skipper and do the bulk of the work.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Because of these helpful insects, there is no need to spray
any chemicals to protect your banana plants. Of course, you can be a biological
control agent yourself and when you first see a rolled up leaf you can unroll
it to find the caterpillar inside and put it out of your misery however you see
fit.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jMAItC97N-E/U3kwGk8k7lI/AAAAAAAAC_w/ecRfOTnVPys/s1600/Erionota_thrax-140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jMAItC97N-E/U3kwGk8k7lI/AAAAAAAAC_w/ecRfOTnVPys/s1600/Erionota_thrax-140.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The rolled up leaves are closed at the top and open at the bottom<br />The caterpillar uses the tubes of leaves as a place to eat and will<br />create new rolls as it uses up its resources.</td></tr>
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HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-66151466968344059282014-04-27T08:17:00.002-10:002014-04-27T08:17:43.881-10:00Upcoming Events of Some Interest to GardenersThere are two events coming up on Oahu in the next week that folks interested in plants may want to attend.<br />
<h2>
May Day is Lei Day in Hawaii</h2>
This coming Thursday, May 1, 2014, is the 87th Annual Lei Day Celebration. The festivities and entertainment begin at 9:00 a.m. and continue to 5:30 p.m. The lei contest exhibit is available for viewing starting at 1:00 p.m. You can see the complete schedule <a href="http://www1.honolulu.gov/parks/programs/leiday/finalprogram87thannualleidaycelebrationfinal.pdf" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
<br />
This is a great place to see a wide range of plants parts in making lei. Native plants, invasive plants, bedding plants, weeds, and even fruits and vegetables are used in making modern lei. There are lei made by compete amateurs and lei made by folks with many years' experience.<br />
<br />
You can see some photos of lei entered into the contest from past years <a href="http://gk-pacisles.smugmug.com/Nature/Lei/" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
<h2>
Oahu Seed and Plant Exchange</h2>
I wrote about the first annual Oahu seed and plant exchange in this blog and you can read that entry <a href="http://hihort.blogspot.com/2013/05/oahu-island-wide-seed-and-plant-exchange.html?q=exchange" target="_blank">here</a>. Or if you want to go straight to information about this year's event you can find details <a href="http://permablitzhawaii.com/2014/04/24/2014-community-seed-plant-exchange-expands-to-east-west-coasts-of-oahu/" target="_blank">here</a>. The interesting thing about this year's event is that it is taking place at two sites on Sunday, May 4, 2014. One site is the same as last year, Kualoa Ranch's Hale Moilii Fishpond, and new this year at Kahumana Farm at 86-660 Lualualei Homestead Road. The two sites makes it more convenient no matter which side of the island you may live.<br />
<br />
Both events start at 11 a.m. and go to sunset. You can bring seeds or plants (properly labeled) and exchange them for others or you can can just bring yourself to listen to the lectures, enjoy the entertainment and pick up some new or old favorites for your garden.HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-89275048839093148482014-03-23T16:51:00.000-10:002014-03-23T16:51:24.664-10:00Pigeon PeaThe pigeon pea has been grown by humans for more than 3,000
years and in some parts of the world it is an important source of protein. In
the U.S. it has grown a bit out of favor among consumers and gardeners but it
still has its uses, both as food as well as green manure or other cover crop
uses.<br /><div class="MsoNormal">
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Pigeon pea is scientifically known as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Cajanus cajan</i> and is, as the common name suggests, in the pea
family or Fabaceae. It goes by various other names around the world, the more
common English names being tropical green pea, no-eye pea, and Congo pea. In
India, the split form of the pea is call <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">toor
dal</i> and is a popular component of many recipes, most specifically lentil
soup (dal).<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8kE7P7WKJUo/Uy-dJUNKrkI/AAAAAAAAC-8/aa3jcQfi-Tw/s1600/Cajanus_cajan-41.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8kE7P7WKJUo/Uy-dJUNKrkI/AAAAAAAAC-8/aa3jcQfi-Tw/s1600/Cajanus_cajan-41.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a>Pigeon pea was first cultivated and is most likely native to
southern India. From there it travelled to East and West Africa and from there
to Europe and the Americas (via the slave trade). Now it is grown throughout
the tropical regions of the world and has been incorporated into many
traditional dishes.<o:p></o:p></div>
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In Hawaii, the pigeon pea has sometimes escaped from
cultivation and has become sparingly naturalized. Although it survives on its
own in Hawaii, it is not a particularly invasive species and tends to be found
in already altered ecosystems. It has been around long enough to have a
Hawaiian name (though it is not a Hawaiian native) and is known as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pī nūnū</i> or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pī Pokoliko</i>. “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Pī nūnū</i>” is
a literal translation of “pigeon pea” and “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pī
Pokoliko</i>” is a literal translation of “Puerto Rican pea.” </div>
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Pigeon peas and
rice is a traditional Puerto Rican dish and most likely the origin of the
Hawaiian name for the plant. It is interesting to note, though, that the pigeon
pea has been in Hawaii since at least 1864, 36 years before the first Puerto
Ricans were brought to Hawaii to work on the sugar plantations. Who actually
brought the pigeon pea to Hawaii is not documented.<o:p></o:p></div>
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According to the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Manual
of the Flowering Plants of Hawai`i</i> (published in 1990 by University of
Hawaii Press and Bishop Museum Press) the pigeon pea may be found “apparently naturalized
in open disturbed areas such as roadsides, pastures, and cane fields” from
about 80 to 2000 foot elevations. It can be found on all the main islands in
Hawaii.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Pigeon peas come in a variety of forms. There are annual
varieties and short-lived perennial types. In Hawaii we have the perennial
types but there are probably seed companies can that can sell you the annual
varieties. The perennial ones can be short shrubs averaging 3 or 4 feet tall or
taller shrubs, up to about 12 feet tall, when flowering.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Pigeon peas are easy to grow from seeds, though it may take
a little while for the plants to take off. The seed germinate in one or two
weeks from planting and may stay only a foot or two tall with one main stem for
the first month or two. Once they get themselves established, though, they
start growing quickly and within three to five months they are full and bushy.
I tend to trim mine to keep them under control and use the trimmings in my
compost or as nitrogen-rich mulch. This may slow down the flowering process but
the clippings are well worth the wait and the bushier plants end up having more
flowers – and seeds.<o:p></o:p></div>
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As a legume the pigeon pea is a nitrogen fixing plant. That
means they have associated bacteria that take nitrogen from the air (N<sub>2</sub>)
and change its form into one that is available for plants (NH<sub>4</sub>). Most
parts of the plants are fairly high in nitrogen and as they decompose, add
nitrogen to the soil (or compost) making it available to other plants. Nitrogen
is also left in the soil by the decomposing roots, enriching the soils for
other plants. This is what makes pigeon peas one of the recommended “green
manures” used to enrich soils.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D2ya0E007mo/Uy-dHgF1SMI/AAAAAAAAC-4/05qZRKhZYSk/s1600/Cajanus_cajan-53.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D2ya0E007mo/Uy-dHgF1SMI/AAAAAAAAC-4/05qZRKhZYSk/s1600/Cajanus_cajan-53.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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Even if it isn’t used as a green manure (worked into the
soil before allowing to flower) but is grown as a crop, it is good to follow a
pigeon pea crop with plants that need richer soils, such as corn or squashes.
The bushy types can be trimmed and the main stems left behind to allow vine
crops to grow on them. Or the whole plant can be trimmed to the ground (not
disturbing the soil too much to allow the roots to decompose) and grain-type crops
or greens can be grown, to use the released nitrogen.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u9cqjPUTa6s/Uy-dFXmWylI/AAAAAAAAC-w/5Y5DD7qgStE/s1600/Cajanus_cajan-57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u9cqjPUTa6s/Uy-dFXmWylI/AAAAAAAAC-w/5Y5DD7qgStE/s1600/Cajanus_cajan-57.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a>As a legume, the pigeon pea has a typical pea-like flower.
Those grown in Hawaii have yellow flowers with darker veins. They are
attractive to honeybees, leafcutter bees and carpenter bees, as well as other
pollinators, and relatively quickly followed by green seedpods. The seedpods
are 1½ to 2½ inches long and about ¼-inch wide with three to nine seeds in
them. The seeds are a little less than ¼- to a little more than ⅓-inch in
diameter and slightly flattened balls. The range in color from light tan to
nearly black.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The seeds can be eaten green or dried. In some parts of the
world the pods themselves are eaten. Boiled green, nearly-mature seeds pods can
be eaten like edamame or the green seeds removed and quickly parboiled and
eaten like green peas or added to soups and stews. The dried seeds can be used
any way dried beans are used. Pigeon peas and rice is particularly flavor-full
and provide a complete protein for those trying to reduce or eliminate meat
products from their diet. Pigeon peas are an important part of a vegetarian
diet in parts of India.<o:p></o:p></div>
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So even though most Western gardeners and farmers have
relegated the pigeon pea to green manure or animal food status, give this old
staple a try. It is easy to grow, leaves garden soil in better shape than before
it was planted, and adds some flavor to many dishes.</div>
HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-16158813842879505532014-02-03T16:44:00.000-10:002014-02-03T16:44:17.559-10:00Grow Your Own ChiaIf you’re of a certain age you remember the commercials for
chia pets – those terra cotta animal figurines that you spread with seeds to
grow their “fur.” Or maybe you know chia
as the newest addition to a healthy diet of smoothies and salads. Chia seeds
are available in small health food stores and the big warehouse chains and
everyplace in between.<br /><div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tSR9AUACTn8/UvBSFfyH_vI/AAAAAAAAC-g/7fctfN7JW3I/s1600/Salvia_hispanica-63.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tSR9AUACTn8/UvBSFfyH_vI/AAAAAAAAC-g/7fctfN7JW3I/s1600/Salvia_hispanica-63.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chia seeds</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Chia, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Salvia hispanica</i>,
is a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae) and most closely related to the
sages. It is an annual that grows quite quickly from its small seeds. The
plants look a little bit like pineapple sage but have a narrower spread and
grow a bit more upright. The leaves are opposite each other and when the plants
are two to three feet tall green flower spikes start to form. Once the spikes
get about 2 to 4 inches long blue or white (mostly blue) flowers start to
appear. The spikes can get 4 to 8 inches long, the tallest ones usually at the
center of the plant and the side shoots with smaller spikes. Once the flowers
have all faded away the spikes will turn a light tan color.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xCopUc8eMQQ/UvBPnSJzMII/AAAAAAAAC9M/J0RU6PklTpg/s1600/Salvia_hispanica-22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xCopUc8eMQQ/UvBPnSJzMII/AAAAAAAAC9M/J0RU6PklTpg/s1600/Salvia_hispanica-22.jpg" height="267" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The flowers are typical of plants in the mint family.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The plants are very easy to grow. The small seeds can be
planted in rows or thinly scattered on a bed. If watered in right away, there is no need to cover them in soil. you can run a rake over the would to mix in he seeds, but a good watering will do the same. If planted in rows the rows
should be 2½ to 3 feet apart. Once the seedlings have germinated and are 1 to 2
inches tall they should be thinned to a final spacing of 1½ to 2 feet apart. If
scattered in a bed, the plants should be thinned to have about 1½ to 2 feet
between each plant.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vYOYLoUNIzw/UvBQghJKy2I/AAAAAAAAC-E/0QFLeg_-aZg/s1600/Salvia_hispanica-52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vYOYLoUNIzw/UvBQghJKy2I/AAAAAAAAC-E/0QFLeg_-aZg/s1600/Salvia_hispanica-52.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A chia plant just starting to flower.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Most of the flower spikes will mature at the same time. Once
the majority of the spikes have dried to a light tan color, the whole plant can be harvested. You can extend the harvest seasons by a few weeks by just
taking the mature spikes leaving the younger ones to mature later, but the
extra seed production is not really worth the extra effort.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So go ahead and harvest the whole pant near the base and
hang the plants upside down in a well-ventilated, dry area to mature a little
more, maybe a week or two. Cut the spikes and place them in a container. Using
gloves, strip off the fruit, making sure everything but the stems falls into
the container. At this stage you can use your hands to break everything up.
Alternatively, you can use one of those hand blenders to break it all up (don't worry, the seeds are so small the blender won't break them).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4WZ7QyBEvms/UvBQXJgohEI/AAAAAAAAC98/Vx3YXbDaZVU/s1600/Salvia_hispanica-40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4WZ7QyBEvms/UvBQXJgohEI/AAAAAAAAC98/Vx3YXbDaZVU/s1600/Salvia_hispanica-40.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A chis plant in full bloom.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Tap the container on the sides to make the seeds fall to the
bottom and the chaff rise to the top. Tip off as much chaff as possible and
repeat until most of the chaff is gone. At this stage it can get a little hard
to get the remaining chaff separated from the seeds. I use a fan at medium
speed to do the final separation. I put the seeds in a shallow container (with
about 2- to 3-inch sides) and tilt it slightly toward the fan, maybe 2 to 3 feet
away from the fan. Toss the seeds an inch or two into the air and the fan
should blow away most of the chaff. Some seeds will also blow away but most
will fall back into the container.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9Nsupv7G01o/UvBPu7MmiiI/AAAAAAAAC9U/9FT48uW0NsE/s1600/Salvia_hispanica-26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9Nsupv7G01o/UvBPu7MmiiI/AAAAAAAAC9U/9FT48uW0NsE/s1600/Salvia_hispanica-26.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once the whole spike turns a light tan<br />they should be harvested</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Repeat the above process a few times until all that remains
are the seeds. Chances are, there will still be a little bit of chaff but these
will rise to the top of the seeds if they are shaken. The remaining chaff can
be picked out by hand.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Some chia may grow again in the same spy as before from seeds dropped by the plant. You can let these grow into the next crop but eventually you will need to replant to produce a reliable crop. There seems to be little chance chia will become a weed in your garden, but do be aware they they may come up from time to time a little while after harvesting.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Set aside some of the seeds for your next crop and use the
rest however you like. Chia seeds are similar in nutrient content to other
edible seeds such as flax or sesame. Current health claims are not extensively
researched and though some preliminary results are promising, don't believe everything you read.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The seeds can be added to other foods as a topping or put into
smoothies, breakfast cereals, energy bars, yogurt, or consumed raw. When soaked in water or other liquids, chia seeds absorb up
to 12 times their weight of the liquid. They develop a gel-like coating that
gives chia-based beverages a distinctive texture. The can also be milled and
eaten that way or cooked into breads and other baked goods.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6lcSAWV2hlw/UvBSCx3PybI/AAAAAAAAC-Y/Yr89iS-cOro/s1600/Salvia_hispanica-60.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6lcSAWV2hlw/UvBSCx3PybI/AAAAAAAAC-Y/Yr89iS-cOro/s1600/Salvia_hispanica-60.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Store your harvested and cleaned seeds in an airtight container.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-16683464101117912142014-01-26T17:41:00.001-10:002014-01-26T17:41:02.345-10:00Cannibal Snail – An Introduced Friend, or Terror?It sounds like a good idea for those of us who have spent
hours <a href="http://hihort.blogspot.com/2012/06/slugs-gotta-hate-em.html?q=slugs">fighting
slugs</a> – a snail that doesn’t eat plants but spends its time looking for and
eating other snails and slugs. "A predator of snails and slugs?" you say. Sign me
up!<br /><div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v3x4O4I3XkY/UuXRLycWGtI/AAAAAAAAC78/CC1CDu2-kv4/s1600/Euglandina_rosea-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v3x4O4I3XkY/UuXRLycWGtI/AAAAAAAAC78/CC1CDu2-kv4/s1600/Euglandina_rosea-4.jpg" height="320" width="311" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rosy wolf snail, note the typical light-pink, elongated<br />shell</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
That’s exactly what happened in in 1955. Some eager
snail-hater, well, someone who was fed up with the giant African land snail (<i>Achatina fulica</i>) that was eating its way though agricultural fields in Hawaii, decided to bring
the rosy wolf snail (<i>Euglandina rosea</i>) to Hawaii. (Of course, some other “wise” soul brought in
the giant African snail – but that’s another story.) Bring in a snail–eating
snail to eat up the pest snails, and slugs, while they are at it.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But they didn’t look at the big picture. Hawaii, and other
Pacific Islands where the rosy wolf snail has been introduced for snail and
slug control, is also home to some very special native snails. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3>
Native Tree Snails</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
These native snails evolved here in Hawaii and are found
nowhere else in the world. And until humans showed up, had very few, if any
predators. Oh, maybe a bird or two ate them once in a while, but certainly none
of their own kind. And these native snails don’t even eat plants. They eat
algae that grows on the leaves of trees. They keep the tree leaves clean,
causing no harm and helping out in their own way.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UI_tj0gg8Ko/UuXRQ2l2ktI/AAAAAAAAC8A/9Rm3R5_l7uk/s1600/Achatina_fulica-15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UI_tj0gg8Ko/UuXRQ2l2ktI/AAAAAAAAC8A/9Rm3R5_l7uk/s1600/Achatina_fulica-15.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A giant African land snail, the original target for the<br />rosy wolf snail.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Along come humans. The first humans brought rats. Rats love
to eat a lot of things, and particularly like snails. They started eating the
Hawaiian tree snails. Then along come European humans, and they bring a whole
host of other predators, including themselves. It was a popular hobby to go
into the Hawaiian forests and collect the beautiful “forest jewels” and put
them on display. And, as mentioned above, someone bright fellow thought they’d
bring in the giant African land snail as a food item. Escargot, you know. That
bright idea went bad and the giant African snail started eating human crops all
over the place. Yikes! What to do?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tI02MkxRykQ/UuXRCvz-QVI/AAAAAAAAC70/HcUcxK7xJKM/s1600/Achatinella_mustelina-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tI02MkxRykQ/UuXRCvz-QVI/AAAAAAAAC70/HcUcxK7xJKM/s1600/Achatinella_mustelina-6.jpg" height="320" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A native Hawaiian tree snail on Oahu,<br /><i>Achatinella mustelina</i>, listed as endangered<br />by the federal government, largely due to the<br />presence of rosy wolf snails.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bring in a carnivorous snail, one to eat the African land
snail. So in 1955 they introduced the rosy wolf snail, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Euglandina rosea</i>, also known as the cannibal snail. One snail to
eat another snail. But the giant African land snail is, large, as it clearly says
in its name. And the rosy wolf snail is quite a bit smaller. Not that the rosy
wolf snail won’t eat giant African land snails if it gets a chance, it just
prefers snails smaller than itself. When it comes across small snails, it will
eat them – all of them – from soft body to shell. It loves to eat our endemic snails.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There are places in Hawaii where expensive snail-proof
fences have been put up to protect our native tree snails. To have to do something
like that to protect our native animals is pretty sad, and unless we come up
with a way to eradicate the rosy wolf snail from native forests, an expensive
method that will create in-place zoos for something that was here long before any
humans arrived.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3>
Rosy Wolf Snails</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rosy wolf snails are native to the Americas, and in North
America is native the southeast US. From there it has been introduced to many
parts of the world for snail control, and almost always has caused ecological
damage by eating native snails.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LYiAvD787fg/UuXRZRTOFEI/AAAAAAAAC8U/20TEupae2qY/s1600/Euglandina_rosea-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LYiAvD787fg/UuXRZRTOFEI/AAAAAAAAC8U/20TEupae2qY/s1600/Euglandina_rosea-6.jpg" height="260" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What a rosy wolf snail should look like after being seen<br />in a native forest,</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The rosy wolf snail eats snails and slugs, but it is a
generalist. They eat other snails, slugs of all kinds and even each other. More
mature rosy wolf snails will gobble up smaller members of their own species,
hence, the name "cannibal snail." They show a preference for smaller specimens but if they
can overpower larger ones, they maneuver the snail so they can get to the soft,
fleshy parts.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
According to the Global Invasive Species Database, the rosy
wolf snail is considered one of the world's 100 worst invaders.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its presence of has been strongly linked to
the extinction and decline of numerous snail species in every area where it has
been introduced.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once introduced they are not too particular as to habitat.
They live just as happily in urban, disturbed habitats as they do in native,
lesser or undisturbed habitats. Maybe they are good for gardeners, but they are
devastating to our native snail fauna. And there is no evidence that has shown
that when they have been introduced they have ever controlled populations of
giant African snails.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XRmkI-xZeTw/UuXRlIfWg4I/AAAAAAAAC8c/z3egK1HKPnc/s1600/Euglandina_rosea-44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XRmkI-xZeTw/UuXRlIfWg4I/AAAAAAAAC8c/z3egK1HKPnc/s1600/Euglandina_rosea-44.jpg" height="223" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mating rosy wolf snails.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I won’t say that if you see one you should kill it without a thought. In your garden,
it might be doing some good, keeping the other terrestrial mollusks under some
control. But if you are hiking, or you see this snail anyplace other than
your or someone’s garden (that is nowhere near a native forest), step on it and do the native snails a favor.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oR3slekO6W4/UuXRRxBOUVI/AAAAAAAAC8M/ed56cGQThSA/s1600/Euglandina_rosea-27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oR3slekO6W4/UuXRRxBOUVI/AAAAAAAAC8M/ed56cGQThSA/s1600/Euglandina_rosea-27.jpg" height="435" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rosy wolf snail chowing down on a slug in the garden.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cudOWbdwawE/UuXRmSmvCWI/AAAAAAAAC8k/EjLgbumOjVw/s1600/Euglandina_rosea_with_Achatina_fulica-16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cudOWbdwawE/UuXRmSmvCWI/AAAAAAAAC8k/EjLgbumOjVw/s1600/Euglandina_rosea_with_Achatina_fulica-16.jpg" height="404" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rosy wolf snail decides to take on a giant African land snail.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jjIGaVdxiGQ/UuXR9SH7-OI/AAAAAAAAC88/FrSr54OPsFI/s1600/Euglandina_rosea_with_Achatina_fulica-36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jjIGaVdxiGQ/UuXR9SH7-OI/AAAAAAAAC88/FrSr54OPsFI/s1600/Euglandina_rosea_with_Achatina_fulica-36.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First, an attack to the big guy's neck.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4MATDlgH4us/UuXR88ZnYSI/AAAAAAAAC80/vHOfcca8Zsw/s1600/Euglandina_rosea_with_Achatina_fulica-45.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4MATDlgH4us/UuXR88ZnYSI/AAAAAAAAC80/vHOfcca8Zsw/s1600/Euglandina_rosea_with_Achatina_fulica-45.jpg" height="500" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Next, an rear attack.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LwI33YShVMs/UuXRwAV_9zI/AAAAAAAAC8s/6dOXBFlwdVk/s1600/Euglandina_rosea_with_Achatina_fulica-338.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LwI33YShVMs/UuXRwAV_9zI/AAAAAAAAC8s/6dOXBFlwdVk/s1600/Euglandina_rosea_with_Achatina_fulica-338.jpg" height="291" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The smaller rosy wolf snail finally gave up and the two snails went their separate ways. The giant African land snail was later crushed by a human foot. The wolf snail was allowed to take on slugs and smaller garden snails in this urban garden.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-86174219644185384192013-12-26T16:03:00.003-10:002013-12-26T16:03:28.143-10:00The Perfect Houseplant?<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mMiYJxUMQQQ/Urzb4hiQQFI/AAAAAAAAC7c/ilNPCCaL0I4/s1600/Zamioculcas_zamiifolia-40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mMiYJxUMQQQ/Urzb4hiQQFI/AAAAAAAAC7c/ilNPCCaL0I4/s320/Zamioculcas_zamiifolia-40.jpg" width="310" /></a>I’ve had one in my house for the past three years. And it
was in my apartment before that for a couple of years. Most houseplants need to
be rotated outside every once in a while to keep them healthy and looking good
(see article <a href="http://hihort.blogspot.com/2012/06/breathe-easy-plants-clean-air.html?q=house">here</a>).
But the ZZ plant doesn’t seem to need that to look and be healthy.</div>
<h3>
<span style="color: #0b5394;">What kind of name is “ZZ”?</span></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The name comes from the scientific name of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Zamioculcas zamiifolia.</i> It also goes by
the common name of Zanzibar gem, aroid palm, fat boy, and eternity plant. It
has only really been commercially available since 1996 when Dutch growers
started mass-producing this African plant – and from around 2000 in the U.S.
Now it can be found most places houseplants are sold. They generally are
available as small starter houseplants in 4-inch pots or as better-established
6- or 8-inch potted plants. But you pay, sometimes dearly, for the larger size
plants. They are fairly slow to propagate and can take a couple of years to get
to the size to fill a 6- or 8-inch pot. And growing space in a nursery costs
money that is passed on in the price of the plant.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ixl1SJwkCNI/Urzb97BSYaI/AAAAAAAAC7k/u9wj7beb0II/s1600/Zamia_portoricensis-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ixl1SJwkCNI/Urzb97BSYaI/AAAAAAAAC7k/u9wj7beb0II/s320/Zamia_portoricensis-3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foliage of <i>Zamia portoricensis</i> a cycad native to Puerto Rico<br />and growing in the Koko Crater Botanical Garden on the<br />east side of Oahu. Note the similarity to the ZZ plant leaves.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The ZZ is in the same plant family as anthurium and
philodendron – the Araceae, or aroid family. It may be hard to see the
similarity at first. It looks much more like a succulent cycad (hence the
specific epithet of “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">zamiifolia</i>” –
foliage like the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Zamia</i>, a type of
cycad). But when a ZZ plant flowers membership in the Araceae is doubtless. The
“flowers” (actually a flower spike) has the typical spathe and spadix of all
members of the Aroid family of plants. </div>
<h3>
<span style="color: #0b5394;">Growing Conditions</span></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In it’s natural habitat in Africa it grows in seasonally wet
areas. That means real wet part of the year and pretty dry the rest of the
year. As a houseplant, it seems to be rather forgiving, except for one thing –
over watering resulting in waterlogged soils. If you have a well-drained
medium, water to your heart’s content. If you are using typical potting mixes
sold for houseplants, let the medium dry out between watering.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nmg-fSElaDY/UrzbmLpTeWI/AAAAAAAAC7U/SpRgPa_Gg3c/s1600/Zamioculcas_zamiifolia-39.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nmg-fSElaDY/UrzbmLpTeWI/AAAAAAAAC7U/SpRgPa_Gg3c/s400/Zamioculcas_zamiifolia-39.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Growing out of doors in a pot. This site gets full<br />sun for two to three hours a day in the afternoon.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The ZZ plant can take full sun in small doses. It won’t grow
in full sun all day but full sun in the morning or later afternoons is fine. I
have two plants in the front of my house (in pots) that get fairly bright
afternoon sun for two to three hours a day. Those plants are more compact than
the one I have indoors, but they are perfectly happy. They require a little
more watering since the sun and wind dries out the potting mix faster than the plant
indoors.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Plants grow at a slow rate indoors under low light
conditions. This can be a little frustrating if you are starting from a very
small plant, but very desirable once they get to a reasonable size. The plant I
mentioned at the start of this article has been in the same pot for the past
four years. Granted, it’s a fairly large pot, and deeper than wide, but it is
nice not having to worry about it outgrowing it’s space and needed a lot of
care.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In lower-light conditions the leaflets are a little further
apart on the leaf, and the leaves themselves tend to get taller and a little
floppier. In bright light or areas with full sun for a portion of the day, the
leaflets are closer together and the leaves stand upright.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3>
<span style="color: #0b5394;">Propagation</span></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
My plants fairly regularly produce flowers but I have never
had any fruit. Either the pollinator isn’t around or the plants aren’t
self-fertile. I don’t know. But you don’t need seeds to make more of this
plant. It is one of the few plants that can be propagated by a part of a leaf.
Each leaflet, if removed from the mother plant and placed in moist but not wet
potting mix will produce a tuber and then put up leaves. It might take 6 to 9
months for the fist leaves to show in the propagation pot. At this stage the
plants can be repotted into 4-inch pots or a few plants can be put together in
a larger pot to get a decent-size houseplant a little faster.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iiM3kztOzMM/Urza5q96dzI/AAAAAAAAC64/oEST6jjZahs/s1600/Zamioculcas_zamiifolia-32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iiM3kztOzMM/Urza5q96dzI/AAAAAAAAC64/oEST6jjZahs/s320/Zamioculcas_zamiifolia-32.jpg" width="305" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just one leaflet placed in potting mix and kept moist will<br />result in a new plant, given time.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eGrJeZKtkRI/Urza_pEPLeI/AAAAAAAAC7A/tYRw_KQ-sFg/s1600/Zamioculcas_zamiifolia-27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eGrJeZKtkRI/Urza_pEPLeI/AAAAAAAAC7A/tYRw_KQ-sFg/s400/Zamioculcas_zamiifolia-27.jpg" width="218" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Patience and regular watering<br />results a new leaves emerging<br />from the tuber formed at the<br />base of the leaflet. It has been about<br />10 months since this leaflet was placed<br />in the pot. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gSV0NRArlrk/UrzafFVLIDI/AAAAAAAAC6w/u1esbgvf6z8/s1600/Zamioculcas_zamiifolia-15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gSV0NRArlrk/UrzafFVLIDI/AAAAAAAAC6w/u1esbgvf6z8/s320/Zamioculcas_zamiifolia-15.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ZZ plant flower just after it opened. In<br />time it will bend over and face the<br />ground.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The flowers are pretty insignificant and are interesting but
don’t add (or subtract) from the beauty of the plant. They are 2 to 4 inches
long and arise at the base of the plant and, if allowed to remain, will curl
over to pretty much hug the potting mix or the side of the pot.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3>
<span style="color: #0b5394;">Rumors of Poison</span></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Like all aroids, the ZZ plant has calcium oxylate crystals.
These are the same crystals that make your mouth itch if you eat undercooked
taro. Poison? No. Irritant? Yes. For this reason, keep this and other aroids
away from pets and small children who like to chew on anything within reach.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So, if you want a nice green plant that needs little care –
and the thought of a plastic or silk plant makes you a little queasy – consider
the ZZ plant for your home or office.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-04szEk9BXmQ/UrzbfUUkQSI/AAAAAAAAC7M/wI-DROvF65E/s1600/Zamioculcas_zamiifolia-34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-04szEk9BXmQ/UrzbfUUkQSI/AAAAAAAAC7M/wI-DROvF65E/s640/Zamioculcas_zamiifolia-34.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indoors or out, the ZZ plant is an attractive potted plant.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-77903147662245416832013-11-24T16:29:00.000-10:002013-11-24T16:29:01.336-10:00Zebra DoveYou’ve seen them around. They’re everywhere -- those
obnoxious little doves that are always bothering anyone eating at an outside
café or eatery. Or the horny little male versions that are always bowing at a
female and coo-coo-coo-cooing at them.<div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0K9NaKpVUSY/UpK0bwIEv2I/AAAAAAAAC6c/gaaPLBAfb6c/s1600/Geopelia_striata-23.dng" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0K9NaKpVUSY/UpK0bwIEv2I/AAAAAAAAC6c/gaaPLBAfb6c/s400/Geopelia_striata-23.dng" width="400" /></a></div>
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They are also known as Barred Dove and Peaceful Dove (scientifically
known as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Geopelia striata</i>) and they
are native from Malaya to Australia and were introduced to Oahu in 1922. Since
then they have spread to the low elevations of all of the main islands. Their
cooing has come to be one of the main bird-songs heard in the Hawaiian Islands
in inhabited areas.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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They are often seen in small to large groups on the ground
picking up crumbs in public areas and eating seeds of grass and other plants in
yards, parks and pretty much everywhere else. Away from people they feed in
pairs or alone by picking up seeds in bare areas of the ground. They</div>
also eat small
insects but seeds are their main food. <br />
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<br /></div>
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The males and females look the same (it’s the males that are
always “bowing” to the females who seem to patently ignore them). They are the
smaller of the doves seen around Hawaii and are gray to brownish gray. They have
long tails, blue around their eyes and beak, and black and white bars on their necks,
shoulders and breasts. Their bellies are usually light gray with maybe a slight
pinkish cast.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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If you look closely at the ones hanging around café’s and
parks in town, their feet often are malformed. This is a result of an avian pox
that they are prone to. Avian pox came to the Hawaiian Islands in the in the
1800s and is a threat to native and nonnative birds alike because they have no
immunity. In zebra doves it shows up as deformed feet and sometimes beaks.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fvJNPx_bGEY/UpKzi1JYGeI/AAAAAAAAC6U/TRIiEiVHm1w/s1600/Geopelia_striata-233.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fvJNPx_bGEY/UpKzi1JYGeI/AAAAAAAAC6U/TRIiEiVHm1w/s400/Geopelia_striata-233.JPG" width="400" /></a>They build nests that are usually just a platform of leaves,
grass blades or other dried plant parts built in bushes or trees or sometimes
on the ground. They lay one or two small white eggs and are sat upon by both
parents for 13 to 18 days. The young leave the nest within two weeks and can
fly well after three weeks. The parents will keep an eye for them a week or
more after they have left the nest.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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They are fed by the parents by regurgitation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A parent will visit the nest, give a little
peck on the head of a very young bird or just present its face to an older
bird. The baby pecks the parent’s cheek and that causes the adult to open its
mouth and “reverse swallow” while the young one inserts its beak and eats up.
Gross, but effective.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I uploaded a video of a pair of young Zebra Doves in a nest
from just after hatching to the day they leave the nest. You can find it on
YouTube <a href="http://youtu.be/NgapAM4HNAA">here</a>. It took two weeks for
the two chicks to leave the nest in this case.<o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-78166672708723646142013-07-06T11:04:00.000-10:002013-07-06T11:04:08.615-10:00Feverfew<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BDcFf9KkuqA/UdiDleZb2qI/AAAAAAAAC4k/gN9_NL77eBw/s1600/Tanacetum_parthenium-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="327" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BDcFf9KkuqA/UdiDleZb2qI/AAAAAAAAC4k/gN9_NL77eBw/s400/Tanacetum_parthenium-13.jpg" width="400" /></a>Do a Google search for herbal remedies or look in pretty
much any herbal medicine book and feverfew has a prominent place. It has long
history as medicinal herb and a solid reputation for its curative properties
(it has been cultivated fro more than 2,000 years). And research has shown that
some of that reputation is deserved.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Scientifically feverfew is currently known as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Tanacetum parthenium.</i> It has also been
known as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Chrysanthemum parthenium,
Chrysanthemum praealtum, Leucanthemum parthenium</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Matricaria parthenium</i>. Although feverfew is the name most English
speakers use for it, it is also known as bachelor's buttons, featherfew,
featherfoil, and flirtwort.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Feverfew is native to southeastern Europe. It is now
widespread throughout Europe, North America, and Australia as a naturalized and
in some case invasive species. There is one report of it naturalizing in Hawaii
(on Haleakalā on Maui) but it hasn’t become a problem there or elsewhere in the
islands.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It is a short perennial herbaceous plant that blooms most of
the year in Hawaii. Its yellow-green leaves are alternate (the leaves are never
directly across from each other on the stem), and look a lot like typical
chrysanthemum leaves in need of some nitrogen or iron. The leaves have a
strong, almost citrus-like scent when crushed or brushed against. The small,
daisy-like white and yellow flowers are arranged in a flat-topped cluster. The
daisy-like flowers identify it as being in the Asteraceae (sunflower family).</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NbtJ25x1jpM/UdiDmatu5dI/AAAAAAAAC4s/fy00pknKl6k/s1600/Tanacetum_parthenium-115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NbtJ25x1jpM/UdiDmatu5dI/AAAAAAAAC4s/fy00pknKl6k/s320/Tanacetum_parthenium-115.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A feverfew leaf.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h2>
A little bit about the names<o:p></o:p></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The species name, “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">parthenium</i>”
comes from its presence in ancient times around the Greek Parthenon, a temple dedicated
to the maiden goddess Athena. Feverfew and its derivatives are themselves
derivatives of the Latin <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">febri fugia</i>,
which means "driver out of fevers."<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 24px; font-weight: bold;">In the Garden</span></div>
<h2>
<o:p></o:p></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Although a European plant, feverfew grows just fine in
Hawaii’s gardens. It may grow a little better at higher elevations than at sea
level but can be grown pretty much anywhere. It is a perennial, but a
short-lived one.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pJ8bJC9m8O4/UdiEJ2OeFlI/AAAAAAAAC5M/k5DT5_cue7w/s1600/Tanacetum_parthenium-124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pJ8bJC9m8O4/UdiEJ2OeFlI/AAAAAAAAC5M/k5DT5_cue7w/s320/Tanacetum_parthenium-124.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Feverfew flower buds.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Feverfew is not too particular as to soil type, but is does
prefer well-drained soil. It doesn’t do well in swampy soils but can take
drought quite well once it is established. It can tolerate a range of pH as
well, but does best when the soil is mildly acidic (5.5) to mildly alkaline
(7.8).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Feverfew should be grown in a sunny location, although it is
somewhat shade tolerant. Once established, the plants require only minimal
care. Like most herbs, feverfew does not like a lot of fertilizing, and
excessive nutrients in commercial fertilizers will reduce its potency and may
even reduce flower production. An occasional application of compost will
provide all the nutrients feverfew needs.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Disease and insect problems are not usually an issue.
Chlorosis (yellowing) of foliage may occur on poorly drained and/or very
alkaline soil. But don’t confuse chlorosis to the naturally yellow-green color
of feverfew leaves. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3tNJhjM4xRM/UdiDtO0SHpI/AAAAAAAAC40/-jpIsSWXN4U/s1600/Tanacetum_parthenium-37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3tNJhjM4xRM/UdiDtO0SHpI/AAAAAAAAC40/-jpIsSWXN4U/s400/Tanacetum_parthenium-37.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A no-see-um (apparently with its cloaking device turned off) drinking<br />nectar from a feverfew flower.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The plants can get a bit floppy if not pruned into shape
every once in a while. Since dead or dying flowers should be removed to make
sure blooms are continuous, use that opportunity to shape the plant and keep it
under control. Feverfew is not overly aggressive but it may slowly spread
across an area if not cut back every once in a while.</div>
<h2>
Propagation by Seed<o:p></o:p></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Feverfew can be grown from seed. Either sow the seeds
directly where you want them in the garden or start them in pots or cell
packs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The seed should be sown on the
surface of the growing medium and pressed in without covering (light helps
germination, just like it does for lettuce seeds). Keep the soil moist, but not
wet, until the seeds germinate. Eighty-five percent of fresh seed should
germinate within five to 15 days. Older seed will have much less to no
germination, so make sure your seeds are less than a year old. The plants may
be transplanted to the garden when they have four true leaves, 6 to 18 inches
apart.</div>
<h2>
Vegetative Propagation<o:p></o:p></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Plants may be divided into three to 15 divisions, according
to size of the parent plant. Or, because side branches often have roots
attached, basal heel cuttings (with part of the old stem and root attached) can
be removed from the parent plant and planted in a pot and kept moist for a few
weeks before transplanting back into the garden.</div>
<h2>
Harvesting<o:p></o:p></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once your plant has had a chance to establish itself and has
plenty of leaves on it, you can begin using them. The leaves and flowers can be
harvested any time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Gently snip the
leaves or branch off with a scissors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The leaves or flowers can be used fresh, dried, or frozen. Gently rinsing
what you have harvested in water can be done to remove dust.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_M0F6efQu9s/UdiB7SsyDHI/AAAAAAAAC4M/R7Kif07zu4s/s1600/Tanacetum_parthenium-103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_M0F6efQu9s/UdiB7SsyDHI/AAAAAAAAC4M/R7Kif07zu4s/s400/Tanacetum_parthenium-103.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Feverfew flowers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If you want to dry the herb, it should not be dried in hot
sunshine, but rather under cloudy or overcast conditions in order to preserve
the active compounds. If this is not possible, a kiln or solar dryer, at
temperatures up to 140<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "Lucida Grande";">°</span></b>F, should be used
for drying. Whichever method is used, the plant material should be spread in a
thin layer to facilitate rapid drying. The moisture level should be reduced to
about 10 per cent moisture.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bag it up and store it in a dark, dry and cool place, well
away from other herbs because of its strong penetrating aroma. Due to suspected
instability of its active ingredient, it should be used within six to 12 months
after harvest.</div>
<h2>
Medicinal Uses<o:p></o:p></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: red;">(Provided as information only and
not as any sort of medical recommendation.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The “driver out of fevers” from the Latin is the first clue
to the uses of feverfew. It has been recommended for reducing fevers and also
treatment for nervousness and lowness of spirits, and as a general tonic. It is
said to be good for coughs, wheezing and difficult breathing, gas and colic. It
has been prescribed to relieve the pain and swelling caused by insect bites and
even as an insect repellant. There are claims that it will reduce the swellings
of rheumatoid arthritis. The list goes on – feverfew is also used for irregular
menstrual periods, a skin disorder called psoriasis, allergies, asthma, ringing
in the ears (tinnitus), dizziness, nausea and vomiting. Some people use
feverfew for difficulty getting pregnant or fathering a child (infertility). It
is also used for anemia, cancer, common cold, earache, liver disease,
prevention of miscarriage, muscular tension, bone disorders, swollen feet,
diarrhea, and upset stomach. Feverfew is sometimes applied directly to the gums
for toothaches or to the skin to kill germs.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Some of these uses are counterintuitive when there is also
the warning that pregnant women not use feverfew because it might contract the
uterus.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There is only scientific evidence for only one of these
uses. Migraine sufferers may benefit from feverfew as a preventative measure or
treatment for migraines. Like most medicines, it doesn’t work for everyone, but
some test subjects did benefit when it was studied.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0E99fdhobgc/UdiDJEwJnOI/AAAAAAAAC4c/ICZAGUhcpdw/s1600/Tanacetum_parthenium-116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0E99fdhobgc/UdiDJEwJnOI/AAAAAAAAC4c/ICZAGUhcpdw/s400/Tanacetum_parthenium-116.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Feverfew just getting ready to bloom.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You can find much more about the medicinal uses of feverfew
on the Web. A good site is the <a href="http://umm.edu/health/medical/altmed/herb/feverfew">University of
Maryland Medical Center</a>.</div>
<h2>
As food<o:p></o:p></h2>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Feverfew is also considered a culinary herb. Although it
should not be eaten in excess (eating too much can cause mouth ulcers), it can
be eaten either fresh or cooked. Leaves are eaten fresh with honey or sautéed
in oil to reduce the bitterness and help prevent mouth ulcers. Some people like
the bitter taste (think arugula) and so the blossoms, fresh or dried, are added
to salads. I personally don’t like bitter so I don’t eat my feverfew. And who
wants mouth ulcers?<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-46599095364056545742013-07-05T09:11:00.000-10:002013-07-05T09:14:52.177-10:00Brown Anole Video<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/0rBvGIDuaOs?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />
<br />HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-6512992275334357202013-06-09T17:08:00.000-10:002013-06-09T17:08:09.444-10:00‘Ūlei (Osteomeles anthyllidifolia)<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z2e3anRDDjw/UbU9oxOpjkI/AAAAAAAAC20/-66FR5BU9CI/s1600/Osteomeles_anthyllidifolia-44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z2e3anRDDjw/UbU9oxOpjkI/AAAAAAAAC20/-66FR5BU9CI/s400/Osteomeles_anthyllidifolia-44.jpg" width="400" /></a>If you are looking for a relatively low-maintenance ground cover
for a large area or slope, ‘ūlei may be your answer.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This member of the rose family (Rosaceae) is also known in
Hawaiian as eluehe or u‘ulei. Wikipedia also says it is known in English as Hawaiian
rose, or Hawaiian hawthorn but I’ve never heard anyone use those names. Most
people refer to it as ‘ūlei.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-outline-level: 1;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Description</span></b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This is an indigenous species, meaning it is native to Hawai‘i
but also other parts of the world (Cook Islands and Tonga). In Hawai’i it can
be found in the wild on all of the main Hawaiian islands except Ni‘ihau and
Kaho‘olawe, in a variety of habitats including coastal cliffs, open lava fields,
dry shrublands and dry (less than 50 inches rainfall per year) to mesic (50 to
100 inches of rainfall per year) forests.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Pp6WqESUawI/UbU81JDP_TI/AAAAAAAAC2Q/q_FerUT8Q1E/s1600/Osteomeles_anthyllidifolia-37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Pp6WqESUawI/UbU81JDP_TI/AAAAAAAAC2Q/q_FerUT8Q1E/s400/Osteomeles_anthyllidifolia-37.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Young fruit.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It is a shrub that usually sprawls along the ground, with
many branches growing over themselves to a height of 3 to 4 feet. It can grow
upright to about 9 feet tall, but this is less common and may be particular to
certain populations of possibly due to stressors (such as browsing by feral
ungulates or judicious pruning). The stems grow up to 15 feet long so one
plant, fully matured could conceivably cover 700 square feet of ground, but it
is more realistic for each plant to cover around 100 to 200 square feet a year
or so after planting.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The stems are covered with a grayish, thin bark and the
leaves are made up of multiple smaller leaflets. The leaves are ¾ inch to 2¾
inches in length, with each of the 15 to 25 leaflets ⅓ to ⅔ inch long and 1/10<sup>th</sup>
to ¼ inch wide. The leaves are glossy, dark green and shiny when mature and a
light, lime-green when young. The lower sides of the leaves are very slightly
fuzzy.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_meczBgzTVo/UbU9kuaYiwI/AAAAAAAAC2w/-BWSBe_KBDo/s1600/Osteomeles_anthyllidifolia-50.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_meczBgzTVo/UbU9kuaYiwI/AAAAAAAAC2w/-BWSBe_KBDo/s400/Osteomeles_anthyllidifolia-50.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Leaves, showing the leaflets.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Very attractive bunches of white flowers are produced in
abundance late winter through spring with a smattering of flowers all year
long. Each clump of flowers has 3 to 6 flowers and these are grouped into
larger bunches with 10 to 30 flowers. Each flower is about <span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;">¼ to ½ inch
in diameter with five petals and multiple stamens marking the center of the
flower. These flowers are quite attractive to honeybees and other pollinators.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;">The flowers are followed by bunches of white, fleshy fruit. The flesh
of the fruit is either white or purple. When the fruits are young, they are green
and slightly fuzzy and much less so or smooth when mature. There are several
hard seeds in each fruit. The seeds are yellowish to tan in color and about the
size of fat fennels seeds (and much harder).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-outline-level: 1;">
<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>In the Landscape</b></span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Bu2xBrmil6Y/UbU-IvGo4NI/AAAAAAAAC3A/9WEULeYamEM/s1600/Osteomeles_anthyllidifolia-54.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Bu2xBrmil6Y/UbU-IvGo4NI/AAAAAAAAC3A/9WEULeYamEM/s400/Osteomeles_anthyllidifolia-54.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>‘Ūlei in a corner of a front yard, on a slope, mixed with uhaloa.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
‘Ūlei in the wild can compete with other plants and is often
found in degraded forests, sometimes one of the few remaining native plants.
Because it sprawls over itself and is covered with foliage, ‘ūlei competes very
well with weeds and a well-established stand ifsusually fairly weed-free.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This dense growth habitat makes ‘ūlei ideal for covering
large areas of ground as a tall ground cover. It can be kept pruned to keep it
confined to desired areas or allowed to sprawl and spread. It works very well
on slopes, once established, and because the sprawling stems can root if they
touch moist soil, they are very good at stopping erosion of slopes.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FgTgusPLPmQ/UbU-kZQAHqI/AAAAAAAAC3Q/q14O2xn_VhE/s1600/Osteomeles_anthyllidifolia-57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FgTgusPLPmQ/UbU-kZQAHqI/AAAAAAAAC3Q/q14O2xn_VhE/s400/Osteomeles_anthyllidifolia-57.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>‘Ūlei topping off a rock wall.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
‘Ūlei does take a bit of time to get established. It’s not
excessively fast growing so there some initial weed maintenance is required.
The plant should be spaced 4 to 5 feet part in offset rows to get good ground
coverage. It may take 8 months to a year to get full ground cover, but spacing
the plants at this distance will make for a nice dense coverage for along time
with little maintenance other than the occasional pruning on the edges.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
‘Ūlei can be trained to grow up a wall as an espalier or
pruned into a short to medium-sized hedge. It works very nicely on top of a
rock or cinder block wall terrace or in larger planters that line walkways or
apartment, condominium or hotel <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>lanai.
The fine leaves give a softening effect to the landscape.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once established ‘ūlei is quite drought tolerant. It is
adaptable to a variety of soil types from sand to clay and requires little to
no fertilizer.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-outline-level: 1;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Traditional Uses</b></span><o:p></o:p></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_iTRQ5sFSUA/UbU-XpTrxcI/AAAAAAAAC3I/2Y9l7kh0wsY/s1600/Osteomeles_anthyllidifolia-65.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_iTRQ5sFSUA/UbU-XpTrxcI/AAAAAAAAC3I/2Y9l7kh0wsY/s400/Osteomeles_anthyllidifolia-65.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>‘Ūlei as a hedge at the Koan Outdoor Circle garden on the<br />island of Hawaii.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
‘Ūlei has very hard, flexible wood. Hawaiians used those
attributes in several ways. Large, older branches and trunks were used to make
digging sticks (‘<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;">ō</span>’<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;">ō</span>), fish spears and a musical instrument called the ‘uk<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;">ē</span>k<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;">ē</span>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The ‘ukēkē is a variety of musical bow or mouth harp, 15
inches to 2 feet long and about 1<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;">½</span> inches wide, with two or three strings
drawn through holes at one end. The strings were strummed and the mouth acted
as a resonance chamber. The resulting sound suggested speech and trained
persons could understand the “language.” It was sometimes used for romancing a
partner.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
‘Ūlei fishing spears were used to catch octopus (as were
fishing spears made from other hardwoods). According to the book “The Works of
the People of Old – <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Na Hana a ka Po’e
Kahiko</i>” by Samuel Manaiakalani Kamakau translated from the newspaper <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ke Au ‘Oko’a</i> by Mary Kawena Pukui, this
is how octopus fishing went:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;">
In the morning there would be
octopus spearing, it was announced to the men and women. There would be many,
many of them, some on canoes, and some afoot carrying spears an <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">anana</i> or two (probably 6 to 12 feet)
long made of [hardwood] sharpened to a point . . . When an octopus was speared
in its hole, it twined its tentacles around the spear and came out. The
fisherman killed it by biting it on the back of the neck, or by shoving the
spear through at its beak.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The younger, flexible branches were bent into hoops for
fishnets. Bag nets were held open by the ‘ūlei branch and taro was often used
as bait.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-outline-level: 1;">
Two Hawaiian sayings (‘<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;">ō</span>lelo
noeau) refer to ‘ūlei<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CzFUyv--J_E/UbU9D0XQLkI/AAAAAAAAC2g/F-UFcaNEg6I/s1600/Osteomeles_anthyllidifolia-108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CzFUyv--J_E/UbU9D0XQLkI/AAAAAAAAC2g/F-UFcaNEg6I/s400/Osteomeles_anthyllidifolia-108.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The dense foliage helps keep weeds down, as well as being attractive.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">‘A‘ole i
‘ena‘ena ka imu i ka māmane, me ka ‘ūlei, i ‘ena‘ena i ka la ‘ola‘o</i>. The
imu is not heated by māmane, and ‘ūlei wood alone, but also by the kindling. To
be powerful, a ruler must have the loyalty of the common people, as well as the
chiefs. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><br />·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">He ‘ūlei
kolo</i>. A creeping ‘ūlei. An expression applied to a tough, strong person.
This one refers the use of ‘ūlei as a fishing spear.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There were also medicinal uses for this plant. The leaf buds
and seeds were chewed and the resulting mash fed to children to treat general
ailments and mouth infections. Cuts and wounds were treated with a mash of ‘ūlei
leaves, bark and salt.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rV2sBweNVN8/UbU_-GQ7IgI/AAAAAAAAC30/CFJYN6qd_eI/s1600/Lei+native+ohia+green+cose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rV2sBweNVN8/UbU_-GQ7IgI/AAAAAAAAC30/CFJYN6qd_eI/s400/Lei+native+ohia+green+cose.jpg" width="203" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The green berries in this lei are from `ulei</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The fruit were eaten at times of famine and the fruit,
leaves and flowers were all used in making lei. They are still used in lei-making.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment-->HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-11854781635254356412013-05-19T11:58:00.001-10:002013-06-11T21:16:34.139-10:00Rattail Radish<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1o4Chiw5kiM/UZlEv8jdEVI/AAAAAAAAC1U/W0Zp9H4aDLw/s1600/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1o4Chiw5kiM/UZlEv8jdEVI/AAAAAAAAC1U/W0Zp9H4aDLw/s400/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-21.jpg" width="266" /></a>The name sounds anything but appetizing, but ignore the
descriptor and concentrate on the “radish” part. If you’re a fan of radishes,
add these to your arsenal. If not, well, both words are unappetizing and you can ignore the rest of this entry.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When most people think of radishes, they think of the edible
root. In Hawaii the first thought is probably of daikon, and maybe of the red
or red and white small globe radishes sliced up as a garnish or into a salad.
But rattail radishes are not grown for the edible roots but for the fruit
(pods). All radishes produce edible pods but the rattail radish has been bred
for larger, fleshier and more flavorful fruit. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #351c75; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Taxonomy</b></span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There is some disagreement on how to classify this radish.
According to the Integrated Taxonomic Information System web page the only
acceptable scientific name for cultivated radishes (globe, daikon, rattail) is <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Raphanus sativus</i> (with a synonym of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Raphanus raphanistrum</i> var. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">sativus</i>). But some taxonomists call the
rattail radish <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">R. caudatus</i>.
“Caudatus” or “caudata” is taxonomy-speak for long-tail. Other taxonomists put
the rattail radish in a Caudatus Group of cultivars.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wBb_lTVR53E/UZlFE6SQoKI/AAAAAAAAC1k/XM_EeLd-r6c/s1600/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="262" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wBb_lTVR53E/UZlFE6SQoKI/AAAAAAAAC1k/XM_EeLd-r6c/s400/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-57.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>White flowers.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Most rattail radishes are heritage vegetables, open-pollinated
and grown from seeds collected from the previous crop. When grown from these
sorts of seeds, the fruits are variable. They may be very long and skinny,
short and squat, light green, tinged in red or completely red (purplish,
really).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #351c75; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Cultivation</b></span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
One complaint of gardeners who grow the small globe radishes
is that they can’t take heat and bolt (go to flower) quite quickly, at the
expense of root production. Rattail radishes don’t produce edible roots like
daikon and globe radishes and they bolt very soon after germinating -- in this
case, a good thing.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jm4USiVg0QA/UZlEO1W_ZjI/AAAAAAAAC0s/JlZCY_Ga2VA/s1600/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jm4USiVg0QA/UZlEO1W_ZjI/AAAAAAAAC0s/JlZCY_Ga2VA/s400/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-3.jpg" width="323" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flowers with a faint blush of pink.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Direct-seed these radishes where you want them and then thin
to about 12 to 15 inches apart once they come up. The flower stalks soon appear
and grow 4 to 6 feet tall. They don’t have very strong stalks and tend to flop
over, so either stake each individual stalk, cage them with tomato cages or tie
them to a central trellis. Alternatively, you can let them flop over although
it makes harvesting a little harder.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rattail radishes are not particular as to soil. They will
grow in most garden soils and are not heavy feeders, but they are fast growers
so they benefit from added compost or light general-purpose fertilizers. Don’t
overdo it with commercial fertilizers, though. It’s not great for the
environment and may encourage more foliage than flowers.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rattail radishes also do not need a lot of irrigation. One
inch a week should do it for most soil types. These radishes are actually quite
drought tolerant, though in drier conditions they may have stronger flavors.
This may be a good or bad thing, depending on your flavor preferences.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cTT3rg7bzaQ/UZlFBJmIC8I/AAAAAAAAC1c/SE_JjZIC6Mo/s1600/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="276" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cTT3rg7bzaQ/UZlFBJmIC8I/AAAAAAAAC1c/SE_JjZIC6Mo/s400/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-51.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pink flowers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
White, pink or purple flowers will appear in no time
followed by the pods. As mentioned above, there may be some variability if you
have several plants at one time. These are very attractive to pollinators such
as honeybees, hover flies, butterflies and moths. Even if you don’t want many
pods these are good plants to have scattered here and there in the garden as a
pollinator attractant for your other pollinator-dependent crops.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Because one plant produces an abundance of pods, it is good
to stagger the planting. Start a new batch every month or so to make sure you
have a steady supply of radish pods. Their drought and heat tolerance make them
ideal to have in the garden year round, though each individual plant will not
last more than a few months. You can make individuals last longer by keeping
the pods harvested regularly and not letting any pods mature.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7jN8uYGwAg0/UZlFonn4lrI/AAAAAAAAC10/HVcvmNdFeD4/s1600/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-81.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="292" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7jN8uYGwAg0/UZlFonn4lrI/AAAAAAAAC10/HVcvmNdFeD4/s320/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-81.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Long skinny pods.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dBNSmKrtp2Q/UZlFmKkVTCI/AAAAAAAAC1s/Ybgb4wf08jA/s1600/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-85.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dBNSmKrtp2Q/UZlFmKkVTCI/AAAAAAAAC1s/Ybgb4wf08jA/s320/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-85.jpg" width="302" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fatter, shorter pods.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sipZeidFvp0/UZlER6TCk-I/AAAAAAAAC00/x_i6mjyTWbk/s1600/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="206" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sipZeidFvp0/UZlER6TCk-I/AAAAAAAAC00/x_i6mjyTWbk/s320/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-15.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Short, squat pods.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
If you want to save seeds for future planting, it is good to
let a few pods mature on a plant or two in order to collect the seeds. Just
make sure that no other Brassicaceae, especially non-rattail radishes, are
blooming at the same time. They will cross breed with non-rattail types and
subsequent crops may not produce the large succulent pods or will have less
desirable flavors. Or they may start putting their energies into producing
roots rather than pods.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #351c75; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Harvesting</b></span><o:p></o:p></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r9TkmwrDvts/UZlFpAUWqCI/AAAAAAAAC18/G4TA9UKaNJM/s1600/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-80.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="311" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r9TkmwrDvts/UZlFpAUWqCI/AAAAAAAAC18/G4TA9UKaNJM/s400/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-80.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rattail radishes don't produce swollen roots.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The general rule of thumb is to not let any pod get thicker
than a pencil. Depending on the type they may reach this stage when just an
inch or so long or up to 6 or 7 inches long. Letting them get much thicker
results in amore fibrous crop and a less pleasant eating experience.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once the plants start producing you may need to harvest
daily, or at a minimum every other day. So unless you want a lot of these, it
is wise to not have too many plants at once. Two or three plants will provide
enough radish pods for a family of four to eat regularly.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The harvested pods will stay fresh for a couple of days kept
in a plastic bag in the crisper of a refrigerator. They will stay fresh for
about a day if not refrigerated, not necessarily going bad but wilting over
time.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v0ayuhyjBQQ/UZlEvhCHzHI/AAAAAAAAC1M/rrsziDN3THI/s1600/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-49.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v0ayuhyjBQQ/UZlEvhCHzHI/AAAAAAAAC1M/rrsziDN3THI/s400/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-49.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Honeybees and other pollinators are attracted to the flowers<br />
of the rattail radish.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #351c75; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Eating</b></span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Use rattail radishes as you would most any other radish.
Chop of fresh pods into a salad to add the typical radish flavor. Pickle them
using any radish pickling or refrigerator pickle recipe (abundant on other Web
sites).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They can be cooked but they
loose some or all of their flavor and over cooking will take away the pleasant
crispness. If they are added to a stir-fry, soup or stew, added them at the
very end of the cooking process.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Add them to a vegetable platter for dipping. Most people
will not recognize them, thinking they are some sort of green bean. It makes
for a good conversation starter.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fNoUSIJus98/UZlEh2-OTlI/AAAAAAAAC08/mLEVxMxqdXQ/s1600/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="381" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fNoUSIJus98/UZlEh2-OTlI/AAAAAAAAC08/mLEVxMxqdXQ/s400/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-34.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A whole range of pod types are produced when several plants are grown<br />
from heritage seeds.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MhAGEHi6bUQ/UZlErD-smEI/AAAAAAAAC1E/8mYyqbi4icA/s1600/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MhAGEHi6bUQ/UZlErD-smEI/AAAAAAAAC1E/8mYyqbi4icA/s400/Raphanus_sativus_caudatus-44.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rattail radish refrigerator pickles.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment-->HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-35618213296579669332013-05-05T18:40:00.000-10:002013-05-05T18:40:10.217-10:00Oahu Island-Wide Seed and Plant ExchangeTouted as probably the first of it's kind on Oahu, a seed and plant exchange was held at Kualoa Ranch (in the Molii Fish Pond area). Starting at 1 p.m. and running until sunset, there were workshops, speakers, live music and most importantly, the seed and plant exchange.<br />
<br />
Participants brought seeds, cuttings, potted plants or divisions and checked them in upon arrival. They were brought to a pavilion and spread out among several tables. Participants could look but not touch until a little at 3:00 p.m. There were three rules<br />
<ol>
<li>No taking seeds or plants before the blessing.</li>
<li>Kupuna (elders) first.</li>
<li>Take only what you'll grow.</li>
</ol>
<div>
There was plenty to choose from. And lots of people doing the choosing.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The motivation of the organizers, based on the some of the speakers remarks, is to have a more sustainable food supply for the islands and to share among farmers, gardeners and hobbyists. There were a few comments from some of the speakers here and there against genetically modified crops, monoculture, big seed companies and the like. No matter the motivation of the organizers, it was a nice way to have an opportunity to get seeds or other propagules of a wide variety of fruits, herbs and vegetables.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UO33q5OckfQ/UYcxI4seiEI/AAAAAAAACxM/ARaiT7-mPKg/s1600/Seed_Exchange_2013-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UO33q5OckfQ/UYcxI4seiEI/AAAAAAAACxM/ARaiT7-mPKg/s400/Seed_Exchange_2013-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Speakers talked to the crowd before the actual exchange.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1ujFm-9qEjg/UYcxtVQvxyI/AAAAAAAACxc/2FmJnFfYm9M/s1600/Seed_Exchange_2013-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1ujFm-9qEjg/UYcxtVQvxyI/AAAAAAAACxc/2FmJnFfYm9M/s400/Seed_Exchange_2013-4.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plants and seeds were brought to a room and displayed before the exchange.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y3uFMId5S_k/UYcxuHzFfmI/AAAAAAAACxk/ksMX7koUKNw/s1600/Seed_Exchange_2013-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y3uFMId5S_k/UYcxuHzFfmI/AAAAAAAACxk/ksMX7koUKNw/s400/Seed_Exchange_2013-5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Participants could look at what was available, before taking anything.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sBN9Hv999hY/UYcwb4QFveI/AAAAAAAACw0/5nqwJhBMfGg/s1600/Seed_Exchange_2013-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sBN9Hv999hY/UYcwb4QFveI/AAAAAAAACw0/5nqwJhBMfGg/s400/Seed_Exchange_2013-13.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It was a pretty mad rush to get in and get what you wanted, but I think most<br />people got what they were looking for.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br />
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HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-31805908580259388692013-04-29T22:41:00.000-10:002013-04-29T22:41:08.013-10:00Okinawan Spinach – Gynura bicolor<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PFITis50QP8/UX-BDZV_UjI/AAAAAAAACwQ/fHn_KFuqHOo/s1600/Gynura_bicolor-20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PFITis50QP8/UX-BDZV_UjI/AAAAAAAACwQ/fHn_KFuqHOo/s400/Gynura_bicolor-20.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Purple form.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #741b47; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">It’s not really spinach. There are a lot of plants that have
“spinach” in their common name – it seems like a catch-all name for a lot
green, leafy vegetables. But this plant goes by a slew of other names,
including cholesterol spinach, dawn dewa, leaves of the gods, Mollucan spinach,
handama, gynura, hung-tsoi, purple spinach and red vegetable. It has various
other names in its native lands.</span></i><br />
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It has also been known under several scientific names – <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Gynura nepaliensis</i>, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">G. procumbens</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">G.
crepioides</i> are all found on the Internet. I’m using the name as given by
George Staples of Bishop Museum who co-authored “A Tropical Garden Flora,”
which is an update of the old standby “In Gardens of Hawaii” by Marie C. Neal.<o:p></o:p></div>
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This sunflower relative (Asteraceae) is native from
northeastern India to Nepal, Myanmar, southern China, Taiwan and Japan. It is
cultivated throughout eastern Asia including China, Taiwan, Japan and Okinawa.
No one knows for sure, but with Hawaii’s strong ties to Japan and Okinawa, but
it probably came into Hawaii from one of those places.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nOXfXEX4GnY/UX-AsXO-SaI/AAAAAAAACv4/aO-ywoJyTkY/s1600/Gynura_bicolor-18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nOXfXEX4GnY/UX-AsXO-SaI/AAAAAAAACv4/aO-ywoJyTkY/s400/Gynura_bicolor-18.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Green form.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It made a big splash when it first became popular in Hawaii.
There were (and still are) claims that this green lowers cholesterol. Hence one
of the names – cholesterol spinach. If you do a Google search, these claims are
still being made and even expanded on, though there is some confusion as to
which species is actually the “cholesterol plant”. There is little scientific
evidence that support the claims, although Japanese and Korean researchers have
published some papers on this plant. But green vegetables have plenty of
vitamins and certainly can’t hurt when included in your diet. There is also
little information on the nutritive value of this species, but again, green
vegetables are generally good for you.<o:p></o:p></div>
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There are two forms of this species available. The more
ornamental type with leaves with a dark green upper surface and dark purple to
red lower surface, or a type with leaves that are a light green on both
surfaces.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cc0000; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Cultivation</b></span><br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
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This is one of the easier perennial green leafy vegetables.
Many plants grown for salads are a pick-once and plant some more type of
situation. Okinawan spinach will thrive most anywhere you plant it and provide
you with plenty of leaves year-round.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IJGwY9GoOCc/UX-AeQ-M5wI/AAAAAAAACvw/e-VIUZzOTm8/s1600/Gynura_bicolor-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IJGwY9GoOCc/UX-AeQ-M5wI/AAAAAAAACvw/e-VIUZzOTm8/s320/Gynura_bicolor-2.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Okinawan spinach flower. Cut these off<br />when you see them to make sure you get<br />nice healthy leaves for harvest.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Okinawan spinach will grow in pretty much any soil type –
from clay to silt to sandy soils. It is not too particular to pH either, doing
equally well in very alkaline soils and acidic soils.<o:p></o:p></div>
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It grows best in full sun or partial shade. It doesn’t like
full shade, though, even in the heat of summer. It is also quite heat tolerant
and doesn’t require a lot of water but is not overly drought tolerant. It may
not die in dry situations, but it will stop producing new growth or the leaves
may weaken and fall off. It won’t tolerate constantly saturated soils, though.
Use a thick layer of mulch to keep soil moisture relatively constant.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Okinawan spinach is not a heavy feeder. Use good compost in
the initial planting and add a layer of compost once a year, especially in
sandy soils. The compost will add all the nutrients the plants need and will
also regulate soil moisture.<o:p></o:p></div>
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This plant can spread so pick a spot carefully or be
prepared to harvest or prune regularly. It isn’t overlay aggressive, but the
sprawling stems will root if the soil is moist enough. It is easily pulled up
and can take severe pruning, to keep it in check. Well-pruned plants will
growth thick enough to keep most weeds at bay and usually grow from 1 to 2 feet
tall.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Flowers are produced in Hawaii but seldom are seeds
produced. It is best, though, to cut back the flowering branches, as the leaves
tend to dwindle in size on the flowering branches. And since the leaves and new
shoots are what are harvested, it is best to discourage flowering.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oSk76VKyQk8/UX-A8vbdu5I/AAAAAAAACwA/dIWwjEW2-3A/s1600/Gynura_bicolor-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oSk76VKyQk8/UX-A8vbdu5I/AAAAAAAACwA/dIWwjEW2-3A/s400/Gynura_bicolor-9.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unopened flower bud.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Okinawan spinach is relatively pest-free. Slugs may attack
it but just follow your favorite slug-control program to keep those pests at
bay. Read about slug control <a href="http://hihort.blogspot.com/2012/06/slugs-gotta-hate-em.html" target="_blank">here</a>. Whiteflies and mites may attack during the
heat of summer and there might occasionally be a leaf miner or mealy bug or
grasshopper here and there. I haven’t bothered to treat for any of these pests,
finding that natural predators will keep them under control, or a nice hard
pruning will reduce the populations of mites and allow the plant to grow out of
it.<o:p></o:p></div>
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These plants are fairly regularly available at pant nurseries
and wherever vegetable plants are sold. But they are also very easy from
cuttings. If you have moist soils, just stick cuttings directly into the garden
where you want them to grow. Or, stick the cuttings into a glass of water, wait
a few of weeks for roots to form and then plant them in the garden and keep the
new plants moist until they are well established.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Because it is low-growing, it can be used as an edible
ground cover or on the edges of larger vegetable beds. Or grow it under taller
plants like eggplant, kale, or collards. I like to intermix my plants and this
ornamental vegetable is a good filler that will keep the soil covered.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Okinawan spinach is very adaptable to container gardening,
and even does just fine in a windowsill that receives plenty of bright or even
direct sunlight. Apartment dwellers can have fresh salad fixings pretty much
every day from a plant or two in the window.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ch-Zg0auVzI/UX-BCKtdkPI/AAAAAAAACwI/l8nwk4H4dKg/s1600/Gynura_bicolor-32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ch-Zg0auVzI/UX-BCKtdkPI/AAAAAAAACwI/l8nwk4H4dKg/s640/Gynura_bicolor-32.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Purple type growing in a garden bed with Red Bore kale.<br />Purple above, purple below.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cc0000; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Harvesting and Using</b></span><o:p></o:p></div>
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The leaves and new shoots are harvested. It is best to cut
back the stems pull the leaves off those cut stems rather than just pulling the
leaves off the plant. Well, you can pull the leaves off the plant, no problem,
but the more you prune, the more side shoots you’ll get and the less likelihood
of flowering. So trim and shape the plant as you harvest to keep a fresh supply
of new growth.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Younger leaves taste better than older leaves, though both
are perfectly edible. Use the young leaves raw in salads, mixed with other greens.
The purple-leaved type adds nice color to a salad. This is the way I tend to
eat it, but then, I eat a lot of salads. The purple type has a stronger flavor
than the green type.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The leaves and young shoot tips can be cooked. Steam, stir
fry, tempura or add to soups, stews or anything and uses cooked greens. Unless
you don’t mind okra-like sliminess, add these greens at the very end of the
cooking process or use a quick-cook method such as stir-frying. When overcooked
Okinawan spinach can get a rather slimy texture. The purple variety will loose
its color when cooked.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Okinawan spinach also fits nicely into the recent green
drinks fad. It can be juiced with other greens or mixed into a smoothie. Its
relatively mild flavor is palatable in any number of green drink recipes, but
it can tend to get a bit foamy if too much is juiced at any one time.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--EndFragment-->HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-21120325590862246422013-04-21T19:03:00.000-10:002013-04-21T19:03:06.619-10:00Kabocha<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lc766KpjBw8/UXTAty9oCuI/AAAAAAAACvE/uHMj5kbeWyI/s1600/Cucurbita_moschata-33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lc766KpjBw8/UXTAty9oCuI/AAAAAAAACvE/uHMj5kbeWyI/s400/Cucurbita_moschata-33.jpg" width="400" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #b45f06; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Cucurbita moschata </i>(x<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> C. maxima</i>)</span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #b45f06; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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In Hawaii it goes by kabocha, in other parts of the country
it’s known as butternut squash or Japanese pumpkin. No matter what you call it,
it is an easy vegetable to grow and a hearty vegetable to eat.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Despite being considered a Japanese vegetable, this type of
squash was probably domesticated in Central or South America. It is now grown
throughout the Pacific and is very popular in Hawaii. And with good reason − it
is very adaptable and can grow in many situations, from coastal to upland
areas. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K0JvLnTN5iw/UXTAd1UKZII/AAAAAAAACu0/SdFsB_lw3To/s1600/Cucurbita_moschata-23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K0JvLnTN5iw/UXTAd1UKZII/AAAAAAAACu0/SdFsB_lw3To/s400/Cucurbita_moschata-23.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Kabocha on a fence.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The type that we know in Hawaii as kabocha was developed in
Japan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has a dark green or gray-green
or orange skin with a rich golden yellow or orange-yellow flesh. Unlike many
squash, the flesh is rich and flavorful.<o:p></o:p></div>
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It’s possible the kabocha is a hybrid between <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Cucurbita moschata</i> (traditional
butternut squash) and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Cucurbita maxima</i>
(the traditional pumpkin species). Kabocha might not make good jack-o-lanterns
but they can be substituted for pumpkin in recipes, or prepared Japanese style
or like any other butternut squash.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Cultivation</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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As mentioned above, this type of squash can grow pretty much
anywhere you have the space. “Space” is the key word here. It is a vining plant
that climbs via tendrils, rather than twining its stems around supports.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Although it can be grown sprawling along the ground, I have
much better luck with it, and get better-formed fruit, if I grow it on some
sort of support. I’ve used fences, bamboo stakes formed into a tipi, and the
stems left behind after trimming back pigeon pea bushes. Some people recommend
the fruit be supported with some sort of netting but I find that its stems
easily support kabocha fruit as long as there is a solid support for those
stems. The tendrils are quite strong and if they have something to wrap around,
they’ll keep the fruit up and off the ground.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RwLyEVyHAK0/UXS_-wcRRCI/AAAAAAAACuk/IZM1ZpArxHM/s1600/Cucurbita_moschata-110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RwLyEVyHAK0/UXS_-wcRRCI/AAAAAAAACuk/IZM1ZpArxHM/s400/Cucurbita_moschata-110.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Kabocha climbing up pigeon pea stems<br />(natural stakes and nitrogen fertilizer -<br />all-in-one). Twine woven among the stems gives<br />more structure for the kabocha vines to grab on.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Kabocha vines easily grow 10 to 15 feet long, so no matter
what you decide to grow them on, they do need space. If you decide to let them
sprawl, give them plenty of room to spread. They are annual plants, so they
won’t be in any one place for long (they tend to die after producing a few
fruit per plant).<o:p></o:p></div>
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Although they aren’t too particular as to soil type, they do
prefer rich, well-drained soil. Plant squash after a bean crop to take
advantage of the nitrogen left behind by the legumes. It is never a bad idea to
use as much compost as you have on hand to enrich the soil and improve with the
drainage (if the natural soil is clay) or the water-holding capacity (if it’s
sandy). If you really feel the need to use chemical fertilizers then use a
fertilizer balanced for fruit or vegetables.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Find a place that has full sun or at least six hours of
direct sunlight a day. It is also best if there is good air circulation. The
lower leaves will inevitably get pretty ratty, but this doesn’t matter, just
ignore it.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Kabocha, like other cucumber relatives, does like it’s water
and can look wilted in the middle of the day. Where I garden, I don’t need to
irrigate my kabocha unless it hasn’t rained for a couple of weeks, but in
general, deeply irrigate with about 1 inch of water per week, unless it’s
raining.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mH9yJE2nyLs/UXTAisx0vkI/AAAAAAAACu8/IZGQr9bCqbQ/s1600/Cucurbita_moschata-28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mH9yJE2nyLs/UXTAisx0vkI/AAAAAAAACu8/IZGQr9bCqbQ/s400/Cucurbita_moschata-28.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The sturdy stems are perfectly capably of holding up the fruit until<br />they mature. Just make sure the supporting structure is strong</i>.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Like other plants in the cucumber/squash family of
vegetable, the male flowers appear first, followed by females with a male here
and there. They are dependent on pollinators, but most of our pollinating
insects are attracted to the big yellow flowers. If you are one of those people
who spray for insects constantly for whatever reason, stop that! Or at least
make sure whatever you are spraying is bee safe and targeted only for the pests
you want to control. Not all insects are bad and these plants won’t produce
without them (unless you want to be the bee and go out and hand pollinate). If
your plants are flowering nicely but the fruit turn yellow and drops when it
less than an inch in diameter, it’s probably not getting pollinated.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Pests and Diseases</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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Like most cucumber and squash relatives kabocha is
susceptible to several insect and disease problems. A good summary of these can
be found at the UH CTAHR knowledgebase Web page (<a href="http://www.extento.hawaii.edu/kbase/crop/crops/squash.htm">http://www.extento.hawaii.edu/kbase/crop/crops/squash.htm</a>).
The insects are aphids, leaf bugs, leaf miners, thrips and whiteflies. Hot
weather usually encourages more insect problems.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6YXSR1iCIk4/UXS_8GvYjkI/AAAAAAAACuc/ky7VNcPeqjE/s1600/Cucurbita_moschata-103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="293" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6YXSR1iCIk4/UXS_8GvYjkI/AAAAAAAACuc/ky7VNcPeqjE/s400/Cucurbita_moschata-103.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Male flower (note the skinny stem).</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XzslcCeB3yM/UXTA1JWE1-I/AAAAAAAACvM/jcKSIsHD1Ao/s1600/Cucurbita_moschata-43.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XzslcCeB3yM/UXTA1JWE1-I/AAAAAAAACvM/jcKSIsHD1Ao/s400/Cucurbita_moschata-43.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Closed female flower (note the swolen stem). If that swollen part yellows<br />and falls off, the flowers wasn't properly pollinated. If it grows into a<br />harvestable squash - success!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rCwTYjQtbsM/UXTAOrkq33I/AAAAAAAACus/9oIZ8Z-47wA/s1600/Cucurbita_moschata-22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="367" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rCwTYjQtbsM/UXTAOrkq33I/AAAAAAAACus/9oIZ8Z-47wA/s400/Cucurbita_moschata-22.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Don't mistake natural leaf coloring for disease. Kabocha has naturally<br />splotchy leaves.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Various fungi and viruses can be problems for kabocha
plants. Some are more of a problem in the wet season and some more of a problem
in dry or hot weather. Some are problems on the fruit but most attack the
leaves or sometimes even the stems.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I have found that even though some of the pests and diseases
kabocha is prone to do show up once in a while, they never really stop the
plants from producing a crop. There really isn’t any need to spray or treat the
plants. If powdery mildew becomes a severe problem, it can be easily controlled
using the backing soda method.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Harvest</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Kabocha are mature when the fruit are 6 to 10 inches in
diameter. Some kabocha stay green and some will turn pumpkin orange. Some are a
mixture of both. But you can tell they are ripe when the color dulls a bit and
the fruit sounds hollow when thumped and the stem shrivels a bit.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i_GCP9CkCvw/UXS_558eAqI/AAAAAAAACuU/wqZ4ws-b3rM/s1600/Cucurbita_moschata-18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i_GCP9CkCvw/UXS_558eAqI/AAAAAAAACuU/wqZ4ws-b3rM/s400/Cucurbita_moschata-18.jpg" width="400" /></a>Cut the fruit from the vine and store them in a cool,
well-ventilated space. No need to refrigerate. They will keep for months as
long as their rind stays intact. Once cut open though, cook them right away and
store them cooked, or store the cut portion in the refrigerator crisper for a
few days (at most).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Cooking</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There are many Web pages with good kabocha abd butternut
squash recipes so I won’t put any here. They can be stewed, stir-fried, tempura
(deep fried), used in salads, as a main dish or a side dish. The rind is edible
and can be scored or left whole, usually just depending on your aesthetic
taste.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Leaving it on adds a nice texture
that is missing in many squash dishes. Kabocha dishes can be savory or sweet,
or both. I’ve come to use them mostly for stews or soups mixed with beans or
other garden vegetables.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lIstrY3GFgc/UXTA-4iUZkI/AAAAAAAACvU/k4-cX1-JO3w/s1600/Cucurbita_moschata-55.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="307" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lIstrY3GFgc/UXTA-4iUZkI/AAAAAAAACvU/k4-cX1-JO3w/s400/Cucurbita_moschata-55.jpg" width="400" /></a>The seeds are edible, raw or roasted. If you roast them,
treat them as you would roasted pumpkin seeds. Soak them for a few hours in
salt water, drain and pat dry, spread them evenly on a cookie sheet and roast
in a 35-375 degree oven until slightly browned, stirring them once or twice to
even out the browning. Eat the whole seed or crack it open and eat the inside
like a sunflower seed.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The flower and young growing tips are also edible, though used much less often in Western cooking.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<o:p></o:p><br />
<!--EndFragment-->HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-76008032010670699232013-03-10T21:05:00.000-10:002013-03-10T21:12:38.818-10:00Identifying Slugs and Other Things<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Sometimes you really need to know what it is you're dealing with. Help identifying slugs, insects and even plants in Hawaii can be hard to come by unless you know the right people or have the right resources.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Slugs are a good example. Trying to figure out the exact species of slug in your garden may not seem important. After all, I wrote an <a href="http://hihort.blogspot.com/2012/06/slugs-gotta-hate-em.html" target="_blank">article on slug control</a> and didn't get into species-specific details. and for the most part, you can deal with controlling slugs no matter what the species. But there is an old adage about getting to know your enemy, and knowledge of your enemies' strengths, weaknesses and hiding places may just be what you need to start winning the war.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Now there is a convenient Web site to help you get those nasty slugs identified to species, and get yourself armed with the information you need. The "Slugs in Hawaii" Web Page by Starr Environmental (<a href="http://www.starrenvironmental.com/flickr/slugs/">http://www.starrenvironmental.com/flickr/slugs/</a>) has nice photos of each of the species. Plus they have a Web page for each species with all the gritty details. Click on the "Flikr" or "Google" links to find even more photographs.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Click on "ID Tools" and it takes you to a fact sheet about the slug. The fact sheet has the following headings:</span><br />
<ul>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Family</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Species</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Common Name</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Description</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Native Range</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Distribution</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Ecology</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Synonyms</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">References</span></li>
</ul>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">There is also a link to Wikipedia entries for each slug species on the page.</span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Based on the information on the Web site, I've figured out that the vast majority of slugs in my garden are the bean slug (<i>Sarasinula plebeia) </i>and the tropical leatherleaf slug (<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px;"><i>Laevicaulis alte)</i></span>. Armed with that knowledge, I know the bean slug can hide as deep as 3 feet in the soils and they are hermaphroditic. That explains why I often see them when I turn my soil or dig up my sweet potatoes and why they seem to escape all my efforts at control especially in the dry season (they are hiding deep down there). The leatherleaf slugs reproduce in warm rainy weather so that is when I should be extra diligent to keep their numbers down.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Forest and Kim Starr are a wonderful resource and make much of their information available free on the Web. They have image sites: (<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px;"><a href="http://www.starrenvironmental.com/images/?o=plants" style="text-decoration: none;">Plants of Hawaii</a>, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px;"><a href="http://www.starrenvironmental.com/images/?o=birds" style="text-decoration: none;">Birds of Hawaii</a>, and </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px;"><a href="http://www.starrenvironmental.com/images/?o=insects" style="text-decoration: none;">Insects of Hawaii</a>), very helpful identification services (</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/hawaiiplantid/" style="text-decoration: none;">Hawaii Plant ID</a>, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/hawaii-insect-id/" style="text-decoration: none;">Hawaii Insect ID</a>) and in addition to their slug identification guide they also have a moth ID guide (</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px;"><a href="http://www.starrenvironmental.com/resources/sphingids/" style="text-decoration: none;">Sphingid Moths of Hawaii</a> - Sphinxmoths, Hawkmoths, and Hornworms), and reptile pages as well (</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px;"><a href="http://www.starrenvironmental.com/flickr/herps/" style="text-decoration: none;">Herps in Hawaii</a>). I'm not sure when these two experts find time to sleep.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px;">Their plants and insects of Hawaii identification services use Flikr as a base where you can upload your pictures and they or other members of the site will give you an identification. If they can't get it to the exact species they can usually get it to the Genus and if all else fails they usually get it at least to Family to help you on your way to further detective work.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px;">When loading pictures for identification, the more information provided the better. Where the picture was taken (island, at a minimum) and the situation (cultivated, along the road, on a hiking trail, climbing up your house walls, etc.) will also help get the photo identified. Plants are easiest to identify from their flowers (and sometimes fruit) but if you can't get the plant in flower, pictures that show a close-up of leaves, the branches, and the whole plant may give clues. For insects, try to get as many body parts exposed as possible. Insects can be hard to photograph well (they love to hop or fly away just as you press the button for the shot) and many are small or you only see one portion of them at any one time. Sometimes species can only be identified by hidden body parts so don't expect 100% identification of the insects. Family or Order may be as close as the experts can get from one or two photographs.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px;">So next time you need something identified, keep the Starrs of the Hawaii environmental world in mind and check out their Web sites.</span></span><br />
<br />HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-61178227734292297942013-02-24T18:43:00.000-10:002013-02-24T18:47:11.289-10:00More Hawaiian Plants as Ground Covers - Ground Covers Part 4<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<h4>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13;">This was first published in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Hawaii Horticulture</i>, February, 2000, Vol. 3 No. 2. It should have
been uploaded to this site back in November-December of 2011, but I somehow
skipped this article. Sorry about that – but here it is for all to read. I
figured it out when I sat down to write and entry on ulei, a ground cover I’m quite
happy with in my yard. I’ll still write that, but I wanted to make sure this
got uploaded.</span></h4>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #274e13;"><br /></span></div>
<h3>
Ulei</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qosCZaGERSg/USrmkRAFxdI/AAAAAAAACr8/oh-h93_2kmk/s1600/color+-+osteomeles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qosCZaGERSg/USrmkRAFxdI/AAAAAAAACr8/oh-h93_2kmk/s320/color+-+osteomeles.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
Ulei flowers are followed by ornamental, fleshy, white fruit. This plant</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
stays green and attractive even in droughts.</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Osteomeles
anthyllidifolia<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Growth type</b>:
Sprawling shrub.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Height</b>: 2 to 4
feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Spread</b>: 4 to 6
feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Flowers</b>: Showy,
white, wild-rose-like flowers in clumps.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Foliage</b>: Shiny to
dull green, compound leaves with small leaflets.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Light</b>: Part shade
to full sun.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Moisture</b>: Allow
to dry between waterings.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tolerances</b>:
Tolerant of salt, wind, heat and drought.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Planting distance</b>:
1 to 3 feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Trimming requirements</b>:
Trim to encourage branching when young and to keep confined when older.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Notes</b>: There are
upright-growing forms of this species. Use the low-growing types for ground
covers. The showy flowers are followed by cranberry-sized, white fruit that is
sometimes rather sweet-tasting and sometimes insipid tasting.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jeANkdBKuUU/USrm3zC6DGI/AAAAAAAACsI/KSJ8wX4d3tM/s1600/color+-+wollastonia+tennuifolia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jeANkdBKuUU/USrm3zC6DGI/AAAAAAAACsI/KSJ8wX4d3tM/s400/color+-+wollastonia+tennuifolia.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
This type of nehe is an endangered species but it makes a very fine</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
ground cover. It also works well in hanging baskets. The yellow, daisylike</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
flowers contrast very nicely with the finely divided, fernlike leaves.</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Nehe</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Melanthera tenuifolia<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Growth type</b>:
Spreading herb.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Height</b>: 1 to 3
feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Spread</b>: 2 to 5
feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Flowers</b>: Small,
yellow, daisy-like flowers.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Foliage</b>: Very
fine, fernlike leaves.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Light</b>: Full sun
to part shade.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Moisture</b>:
Moderate.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tolerances</b>:
Tolerant of moderate drought.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Planting distance</b>:
1 to 3 feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Trimming requirements</b>:
Trim to keep confined to the planting area and to encourage branching.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Notes</b>: This is a
federally listed endangered species and should only be purchased (or sold) with
an endangered species label from the Department of Land and Natural Resources.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3>
Ohelo kai</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Lycium sandwicense<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Growth type</b>:
Spreading shrub.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Height</b>: 1 to 3
feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Spread</b>: 2 to 5
feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Flowers</b>: Small,
white, star-shaped flowers followed by red fruit.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6AeZG2O3H3c/USrnnP7gwCI/AAAAAAAACsU/uFsIClbvczc/s1600/color+-+lycium.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6AeZG2O3H3c/USrnnP7gwCI/AAAAAAAACsU/uFsIClbvczc/s320/color+-+lycium.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
Ohelo kai gets its name from the red berries that follow the white</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
flowers on this sprawling beach shrub. With regular pruning, the öhelo</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
kai makes a very good ground cover for dry areas and beach plantings.</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Foliage</b>:
Olive-green, small leaves.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Light</b>: Full sun.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Moisture</b>: Allow
to dry between waterings.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tolerances</b>:
Tolerant of wind, salt, drought and heat.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Planting distance</b>:
12 to 24 inches.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Trimming requirements</b>:
Trim to encourage branching.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Notes</b>: Some small
branches lose their leaves and act as thorns (though they are really short,
sharp, branches). This makes ohelo kai a good barrier plant. Regular trimming
is needed to encourage many side branches, otherwise the plants tend to be
sparse and sprawling.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3>
Pili grass</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Heteropogon contortus<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Growth type</b>:
Upright, clumping grass.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Height</b>: 2 to 4
feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TLz_FcSji4A/USrn8wEaZRI/AAAAAAAACsc/XImC3L22U6s/s1600/color+-+heteropogon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TLz_FcSji4A/USrn8wEaZRI/AAAAAAAACsc/XImC3L22U6s/s320/color+-+heteropogon.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
When planted close together, pili grass makes a good, tall ground cover.</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
It also works well as a specimen plant wherever fountain grass would be</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
used.</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Spread</b>: 1 to 2
feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Flowers</b>:
Insignificant flowers followed by distinctive, twisting seed heads.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Foliage</b>: Light
green grassy leaves growing upright from a central base.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Light</b>: Full sun
to part shade.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Moisture</b>:
Moderate.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tolerances</b>:
Tolerant of wind, salt, heat and drought.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Planting distance</b>:
1 to 2 feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Trimming requirements</b>:
None. Plantings can be rejuvenated by yearly or bi-yearly trimming to 6 inches
tall.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Notes</b>: Pili grass
was used as a thatching material for traditional Hawaiian houses. It makes a
good, tall ground cover and should be used in place of fountain grass (an
illegal plant in Hawaii).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3>
Mauu akiaki</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Mot6H0TcV94/USroNYmbFII/AAAAAAAACsk/5-HlTggU41Y/s1600/color+-+fimbristylis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Mot6H0TcV94/USroNYmbFII/AAAAAAAACsk/5-HlTggU41Y/s320/color+-+fimbristylis.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
Mauu akiaki looks like a stiff mondo grass but is really a sedge</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
(mondo grass is a lily relative). Use this small, clumping sedge any</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
place you would use mondo grass. It performs better than mondo grass</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
in hot, sunny, dry areas and in seaside gardens.</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Fimbristylis cymosa<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Growth type</b>:
Clumping herb (sedge).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Height</b>: 4 to 8
inches.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Spread</b>: 4 to 8 inches.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Flowers</b>:
Insignificant flowers in tan clumps on long spikes held above the foliage.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Foliage</b>: Thin,
stiff, upright or smoothly arching leaves arising from a central stem.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Light</b>: Partial
shade to full sun.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Moisture</b>: Allow
to dry between waterings.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tolerances</b>:
Tolerant of salt, wind, heat and drought.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Planting distance</b>:
4 to 6 inches.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Trimming requirements</b>:
None.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Notes</b>: Plants
grown in full sun will be shorter than those grown in partial shade. The flower
spikes can be removed to make this plant look more like mondo grass or be left
on as an added feature.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3>
Enaena</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bc8lzg8YBxU/USroidpHioI/AAAAAAAACsw/RBL_hDohLyI/s1600/color+-+pseudognaphalium+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="281" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bc8lzg8YBxU/USroidpHioI/AAAAAAAACsw/RBL_hDohLyI/s320/color+-+pseudognaphalium+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
Though short-lived, the enaena is a fun plant to use as a ground cover.</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
The bright white, fuzzy leaves are reminiscent of lamb’s ears and feel</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
good to the touch in addition to looking good to the eye. Keep the flowers</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
trimmed off to extend the growing season.</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Pseudognaphalium
sandwicense<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Growth type</b>:
Creeping herb.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Height</b>: 4 to 6
inches (with taller flower spikes).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Spread</b>: 6 to 12
inches.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Flowers</b>: Yellow
flowers on spikes 6 to 10 inches tall.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Foliage</b>: Very
fuzzy and light green to bright white.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Light</b>: Full sun
to partial shade.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Moisture</b>: Allow
to dry between waterings.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tolerances</b>:
Tolerant of salt, wind, heat and moderate drought.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Planting distance</b>:
4 to 8 inches.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Trimming requirements</b>:
Trim off flower spikes to prolong season.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Notes</b>: Plants
grown in full sun have a brighter white fuzz on them. These plants should be
grown as annuals, replaced as they die. To prolong the usefulness of these
plants, remove the flower spike. The seeds are on little parachutes and will
blow around in the wind, making it only somewhat likely that seedlings will
come up where last year’s plants were.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3>
Nehe</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fWrmslgKWZI/USrm31QBHRI/AAAAAAAACsE/Wtlz12FlccM/s1600/color+-+wollastonia+micrantha.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fWrmslgKWZI/USrm31QBHRI/AAAAAAAACsE/Wtlz12FlccM/s320/color+-+wollastonia+micrantha.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
Another nehe with finely divided leaves, <i>Melanthera micrantha</i> is also</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
an endangered species. This nehe doesn’t have the attractive yellow</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
flowers of <i>M. tenuifolia</i>, but it works just as well as a ground cover.</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Melanthera micrantha<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Growth type</b>:
Sprawling herb.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Height</b>: 1 to 1.5
feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Spread</b>: 3 to 6
feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Flowers</b>:
Insignificant yellow flowers barely visible among the leaves.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Foliage: Finely divided leaves that have a fernlike
appearance. Not as finely divided as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">M.
tenuifolia</i>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Light</b>: Full sun
to partial shade.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Moisture</b>: Keep
moist.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tolerances</b>:
Tolerant of mild drought once established.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Planting distance</b>:
1.5 to 3 feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Trimming requirements: Keep growing points trimmed to
encourage side shoots. This can be an aggressive grower and should be trimmed
to keep it confined to a planting area.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Notes</b>: This is an
endangered species. This nehe also works well in hanging baskets, if the soil
is kept moist.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3>
Pohuehue</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tmCv9LhFUYA/USro0Vnsp8I/AAAAAAAACs8/9xCs4JOKH14/s1600/color+-+ipomoaea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tmCv9LhFUYA/USro0Vnsp8I/AAAAAAAACs8/9xCs4JOKH14/s320/color+-+ipomoaea.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
One of Hawaii’s better-known native plants, pohuehue makes a good</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
ground cover in drier areas of the state. The flowers are an added bonus.</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ipomoea pes-caprae<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Growth type</b>:
Sprawling vine.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Height</b>: 8 to 12
inches.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Spread</b>: 7 to 15
feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Flowers</b>: Very
showy, purple to white morning-glory flowers that last only one day.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Foliage</b>: Rounded,
two-lobed light to dark green leaves.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Light</b>: Full sun.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Moisture</b>: Allow
to dry between waterings.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tolerances</b>:
Tolerant of salt, wind, heat and drought.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Planting distance</b>:
2 to 4 feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Trimming requirements</b>:
Trim to keep confined to its growing area.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Notes</b>: This can
be an aggressive plant when it is actively growing. It grows fastest and best
in the summer. This is an ideal plant for beach plantings and does a good job
at stabilizing beaches. Long stems can be pruned or easily wound back toward the
main growing area.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dMDelB7nI-g/USrpFHwnbKI/AAAAAAAACtE/9_5gDJeaKIg/s1600/color+-+sporobolus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dMDelB7nI-g/USrpFHwnbKI/AAAAAAAACtE/9_5gDJeaKIg/s400/color+-+sporobolus.jpg" width="280" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
The ability of akiaki to grow under most environmental conditions</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
makes it an ideal ground cover for hard-to-maintain areas of a yard or</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
garden.</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Akiaki</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Sporobolus virginicus<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Growth type</b>:
Creeping grass.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Height</b>: 8 to 16
inches.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Spread</b>: 2 to 4
feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Flowers</b>:
Insignificant on stiff spikes.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Foliage</b>: Thin,
light-green leaves on skinny stems.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Light</b>: Full sun
to part shade.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Moisture</b>: Keep
moist or allow to dry between waterings.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tolerances</b>:
Tolerant of salt, wind, heat, drought and standing water.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Planting distance</b>:
4 to 6 inches for quick coverage, 8 to 12 inches for thinner coverage.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Trimming requirements</b>:
None needed.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Notes</b>: This grass
does not take mowing well but can be trimmed occasionally by a string trimmer.
It works well in areas that are hard to access or don’t need a “finished” look,
such as the “rough” of golf courses. It is very versatile in its growth
requirements and can spread by runners that root and send out new stems.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D-P4ncpOkmM/USrpYqcWhrI/AAAAAAAACtM/uPTMuQKCwaI/s1600/color+-+chamaesyce.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D-P4ncpOkmM/USrpYqcWhrI/AAAAAAAACtM/uPTMuQKCwaI/s320/color+-+chamaesyce.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
Akoko is happiest in beach plantings but will grow quite well away from</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
salt spray. Well-drained soil that is allowed to dry between waterings</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
will assure its health.</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Akoko</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Euphorbia degeneri<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Growth type</b>:
Prostrate shrub.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Height</b>: 4 to 8
inches.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Spread</b>: 8 to 16
inches.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Flowers</b>:
Insignificant.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Foliage</b>:
Coin-shaped and sized round leaves, light green to tinged red in color.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Light</b>: Full sun
to part shade.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Moisture</b>: Allow
to dry between waterings.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tolerances</b>:
Tolerant of salt, wind, heat and drought.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Planting distance</b>:
10 to 16 inches.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Trimming requirements</b>:
None.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Notes</b>: Leaves
turn red when the plant is overly stressed.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3>
Palapalai</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F__vOsoOlUQ/USrppsbMYnI/AAAAAAAACtU/keiEV8s9jW0/s1600/color+-+microlepia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F__vOsoOlUQ/USrppsbMYnI/AAAAAAAACtU/keiEV8s9jW0/s320/color+-+microlepia.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
Palapalai is a nice native fern to use in the garden. The rhizomes crawl</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
along the soil, sending up new fronds every couple of inches. Fronds can</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
be harvested for making lei without being missed in an established</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
planting.</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Microlepia strigosa<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Growth type</b>:
Spreading fern.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Height</b>: 2 to 5
feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Spread</b>: 3 to 5
feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Flowers</b>: None.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Foliage</b>:
Triangle-shaped, soft fronds, light to dark green.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Light</b>: Full shade
to full sun.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Moisture</b>: Keep
moist.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tolerances</b>:
Tolerant of shade and occasional drought.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Planting distance</b>:
1 to 2 feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Trimming requirements</b>:
None needed. May have to occasionally remove dead fronds.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Notes</b>: The fronds
are used to make lei. Plants in full sun need higher amounts of water than
those in shade. Those in shade can tolerate drying out slightly between
waterings. Lei makers have their favorite sources for fronds. Not all palapalai
are created equal when it comes to making lei.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WwXKHRpRZuM/USrp7EpJftI/AAAAAAAACtc/OOMZBzydbcQ/s1600/color+-+sphenomeris.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WwXKHRpRZuM/USrp7EpJftI/AAAAAAAACtc/OOMZBzydbcQ/s320/color+-+sphenomeris.jpg" width="286" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
Palaa is one of the better choices for ground covers on steep slopes.</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
Once established it will start spreading by spores as well as by</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
rhizomes, helping to control erosion. Remove old fronds to keep your</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
planting nice and green.</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Palaa</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Sphenomeris chinensis<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Growth type</b>:
Spreading fern.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Height</b>: 1 to 1.5
feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Spread</b>: 1 to 2
feet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Flowers</b>: None.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Foliage</b>: Lacy,
light green fronds with dark stems. The fronds sometimes blacken if damaged or
stressed.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Light</b>: Full shade
to full sun. Prefers partial sun.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Moisture</b>: Allow
to dry between waterings.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tolerances</b>:
Tolerant of occasional drought.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Planting distance</b>:
8 to 12 inches.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Trimming requirements</b>:
Remove old fronds as they blacken.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Notes</b>: The fronds
are used for making lei. This fern does very well on slopes with partial shade
or full sun and will start spreading by spores once it is established in an
area. A dye was made from this fern to color kapa.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h3>
Rock’s Tetramolopium</h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Tetramolopium rockii<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Growth type</b>:
Slightly spreading herb.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Height</b>: 6 to 8
inches.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QKP_-TR5iXY/USrqNMOrBPI/AAAAAAAACtk/coNQ0RrANB8/s1600/color+-+tetramolopium.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QKP_-TR5iXY/USrqNMOrBPI/AAAAAAAACtk/coNQ0RrANB8/s320/color+-+tetramolopium.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
Rock’s tetramolopium has small, white, asterlike flowers held above its</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
light green, fuzzy leaves. This endangered species works very well in</div>
<div style="font: 9.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
hot, dry, sunny areas.</div>
</td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Spread</b>: 6 to 12
inches.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Flowers</b>: Small
daisy- or aster-like white flowers.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Foliage</b>: Slightly
sticky and fuzzy, light green, spoon-shaped leaves.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Light</b>: Part shade
to full sun (prefers full sun).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Moisture</b>: Allow
to dry between waterings.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tolerances</b>:
Tolerant of salt, wind, heat and drought.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Planting distance</b>:
4 to 8 inches.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Trimming requirements</b>:
None.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Notes</b>: This is a
fairly short-lived perennial and should be rejuvenated with new plants every
year or two. This is an endangered species. Seeds are on little parachutes.<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-84668296653669745872013-02-09T22:42:00.001-10:002013-07-05T05:44:02.919-10:00Two Garden Lizards<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #b45f06; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There are two types of lizards commonly found In Hawaii’s
gardens. Some gardens have one more than the other at any one time, or only one
or the other.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #b45f06; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #b45f06; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Both are in the iguana family (Iguanidae), though they don’t
look like a typical iguana. A lot of people call them chameleons, but they
aren’t really related to chameleons. They are actually anoles.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MAEwLbfxG50/URdarJwoZPI/AAAAAAAACqw/VuMbtJkIUZI/s1600/Anolis_sagrei-216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MAEwLbfxG50/URdarJwoZPI/AAAAAAAACqw/VuMbtJkIUZI/s400/Anolis_sagrei-216.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #134f5c; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Brown Anole (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Anolis
sagrei</i>)</b></span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In my garden, this is the most common lizard. It seems to be
pretty much everywhere – climbing up and down plants, running along the grass,
jumping on and off the lower part of fences, and dodging in and out of the rock walls
-- but always about only three or four feet from the ground level, if that. Usually they hang out on shorter plants and on the ground.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Brown anoles are native to the Caribbean (Cuba and the
Bahamas) and are found in Hawaii on Kauai, Oahu, Maui and the Big Island. It
was first seen on Oahu in 1992 but some say it was introduced around 1980,
probably as escaped pets or on nursery plant materials. Now it gets around the
island by hitchhiking on nursery materials and cars.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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According to an article in the publication <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Bishop Museum Occasional Papers</i>, in the
Pearl Harbor area there is a population of this lizard that has the unique feature
that all of them have have rusty orange heads. Apparently, his sort of thing
happens among brown anoles, although whether whole groups have orange heads or
just a few here and there in the Caribbean isn’t known. It’s possible these
Pearl Harbor orange-headed brown anoles were a separate introduction to the
island most likely from the pet trade, since orange heads would be attractive
as pets.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3K4Xxwmb3FE/URdaz8W4PeI/AAAAAAAACrM/KD9YK4vPv5c/s1600/Anolis_carolinensis-125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3K4Xxwmb3FE/URdaz8W4PeI/AAAAAAAACrM/KD9YK4vPv5c/s400/Anolis_carolinensis-125.jpg" width="265" /></a></div>
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Although they can be rather entertaining in the yard, this
is an invasive species that eats practically anything it can fit in its mouth. They
usually eat insects, spiders, worms, slugs and snails but also other lizards
like the young of the green anole. It can build up to high densities and can tolerate
open, hot habitats so when it gets into native dry forests or coastal habitats it
devastates native insects.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #134f5c; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Green Anole (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Anolis
carolinensis</i>)</b></span><o:p></o:p></div>
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This anole is less common than the brown at my place. It
hangs out a little higher up in plants and on the upper parts of walls and
fences. It seems to particularly like it when I plant corn -- or maybe that’s
just when I get a chance to really see it.<o:p></o:p></div>
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This is also called Carolina anole, <span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">American anole</span> and <span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">red-throated
anole.</span> This lizard is native to the southeastern United States.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was first discovered on Oahu in 1950 in
Honolulu and is now also found on Kauai, Maui, Molokai, Lanai and the Big
Island. Just like the brown anole it gets around by hitchhiking on nursery
materials and cars but also because people intentionally move it around because
they like having it around.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The green anole eats the same thing the brown anoles do. It’s a little larger than the brown anole, but both will
eat each other’s young. It is often green but can sometimes be brown, and can change between the two (causing some people to think they are chameleons).<o:p></o:p></div>
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Both anoles can detach a portion of their tails when pursued or
captured and that tail will continue to move, hopefully distracting what or
whoever was trying to catch it. This allows the anole to escape. The tail will
regrow, at least most of it.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lv6Ey6opKVI/URdayYyGrvI/AAAAAAAACrA/QSsp8EtQuzw/s1600/_MG_1583.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lv6Ey6opKVI/URdayYyGrvI/AAAAAAAACrA/QSsp8EtQuzw/s400/_MG_1583.jpg" width="310" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A brown anole eating a stink bug while being carefully<br />
observed by a hover fly.</td></tr>
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Neither of these lizards is aggressive toward humans. They
can bite if pressed but it doesn’t hurt and happens rarely enough to say it
doesn’t happen. They can be rather skittish and often you just see them out of
the corner of your eye as they scramble out of your way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But sometimes they feel a bit friendlier and
will sit still and watch you watching them.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The male of both species have a flap on their throats called
a dewlap that they extend to attract a mate or display against a rival. Sometimes
the opening and closing of the dewlap is accompanied by what look like jerky push-ups, a quick raising and lowering of the front end of the body. Sometimes they
just open and close the dewlap and forgo the extra exercise.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kxuggAzaQRo/URdawZ_FNRI/AAAAAAAACq4/QLpewHGxks0/s1600/Anolis_sagrei-255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kxuggAzaQRo/URdawZ_FNRI/AAAAAAAACq4/QLpewHGxks0/s640/Anolis_sagrei-255.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A brown anole displaying his dewlap.</td></tr>
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<!--EndFragment-->HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8257030313055183044.post-79378826884762202412013-02-03T17:08:00.002-10:002013-02-03T17:08:49.815-10:00Pakalana AvailabilityI've been seeing <a href="http://hihort.blogspot.com/2012/11/the-heavenly-fragrance-of-pakalana.html" target="_blank">pakalana </a>available all around Oahu. I saw it at Walmart, Lowe's, Home Depot and Ko'olau Farmers. So, despite what I wrote in the <a href="http://hihort.blogspot.com/2012/11/the-heavenly-fragrance-of-pakalana.html" target="_blank">blog entry</a>, if you want one of these wonderful-smelling plants, you can get one quite readily right now, at least on Oahu.HiHorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17353866086035537945noreply@blogger.com0